June 25th
There is an interesting mix of Yuppie and Kentucky on the back roads. You can draw your own conclusions about what that looks like. I found my second penny while walking the highway this morning. The trail can be as much as 30 % road walk for a day. Was able to do better hiking today, as I get stronger and have less weight in my pack and on me. Issue, slimy slugs that show up at night, crawl into my shoes, on the tent, on any gear left out over night, never had this problem before, so on the AT it was mice, here it is slugs. Attempted to hitch hike into Franklinville, on the road walk to the next section of the trail. NY cars go fast and if I read their minds it goes something like, "if you are dumb enough to hike you are dumb enough to think I will get my car dirty with you". I started to walk into Franklinville, came across an wayside ice cream stand, had a double large vanilla milk shake, they told me that there was no place to stay in town, they let me fill up my water bottles, and I went back on the trail and located a decent camp site. I look at the curly fries, the hot dogs etc, decided that with 2 miles yet to go on a hot afternoon, I did not want to risk an upset stomach or food that while tasting good, would be too rich for me at this stage of the day. The strap on the food bag broke while I was hanging it in the tree, incase there was an active bear in the area. Will have to saw it up later, I do have the needle and thread for the job. (experience). The FLT is not a trail for beginners either for gear problems etc.
Finger Lakes Trail, end-to-end, through (thru) hike, started June 18th completed Aug 9th, 2010. A 52 day journey, 563miles. Title: The Old Man and the Trail, A Solitary Journey of Renewal. By Garth Fisher, age 70, 2315 N. Wright Rd., Janesville, WI 53546
Sunday, September 5, 2010
June 26th Bivouac
June 26
On the AT it was rocks that gave me grief until I learned to love rocks and became Rockdancer, here on the FLT it is raspberry bushes, foot high, shin high, belt high, shoulder high (and brush waist high). The other thing, today was mud holes, the mud thick and heavy, when I pulled the hiking poles out there was a definite pop, and a couple of times there was question as to whether or not the mud would suck my boot off, I won but it was because my shoe laces were on tight. Today was techniquely the most difficult hike of the trail so far, the trail was not maintained, it was well marked except where there was a multi tree blow down, i.e. dozens of blown down trees, I had to bushwhack, I went to the left, circled the blow downs, could not find the blazes, realized I did not have a compass, knew that I did not what to backtrack what I had just slogged my way through. Went backwards down a path, and cut into the blazes, it, so far, was the only time I had a concern about locate. I have missed the trail turn off twice, where the trail went to the left or right, and I went straight ahead, until I realized that I had not seen any white blazes for a while. Decided to road walk to get to Windy Hill Camp Ground for the night, attempted to hitchhike, very few cars, and they were going 50-60 and yuppie looking. Found a couple in their yard and went over and started talking to them, she had just cut asparagus, told her about the last I had in Wis., I asked about directions, road hills, told her where I was wanting to go. The man also 70 with a very unaligned lower back, asked me if I looked familiar, I must have looked very curious, said I was from Wis, he said he had seen me 3 times the day before. He was in one of the big red dump trucks that were hauling brush away from a lumber cutting. I as for a ride to Windy Hills, he was happy to take me, once there I realized just how long it would have taken me to walk it, so we got there in 15 minutes, where it would have taken me 3 hours to hike the road. I had called the guy at the Windy Hills; he had a spot for me with running water and an electric outlet. Hey, plus indoor toilet and shower. Hey, I had a hot shower, washed my clothes out, and felt clean all over for the first time in 3 days. I met a guy at the camp ground and we talked about my adventure i.e. hike, he has a trail, year round at the camp ground, he said he was a 2 pack a day man and knew he could not hike, his adventure was driving the 4 wheeler around the camp grounds. He said that only half jokingly. He was in his early 50's by my guess.
On the AT it was rocks that gave me grief until I learned to love rocks and became Rockdancer, here on the FLT it is raspberry bushes, foot high, shin high, belt high, shoulder high (and brush waist high). The other thing, today was mud holes, the mud thick and heavy, when I pulled the hiking poles out there was a definite pop, and a couple of times there was question as to whether or not the mud would suck my boot off, I won but it was because my shoe laces were on tight. Today was techniquely the most difficult hike of the trail so far, the trail was not maintained, it was well marked except where there was a multi tree blow down, i.e. dozens of blown down trees, I had to bushwhack, I went to the left, circled the blow downs, could not find the blazes, realized I did not have a compass, knew that I did not what to backtrack what I had just slogged my way through. Went backwards down a path, and cut into the blazes, it, so far, was the only time I had a concern about locate. I have missed the trail turn off twice, where the trail went to the left or right, and I went straight ahead, until I realized that I had not seen any white blazes for a while. Decided to road walk to get to Windy Hill Camp Ground for the night, attempted to hitchhike, very few cars, and they were going 50-60 and yuppie looking. Found a couple in their yard and went over and started talking to them, she had just cut asparagus, told her about the last I had in Wis., I asked about directions, road hills, told her where I was wanting to go. The man also 70 with a very unaligned lower back, asked me if I looked familiar, I must have looked very curious, said I was from Wis, he said he had seen me 3 times the day before. He was in one of the big red dump trucks that were hauling brush away from a lumber cutting. I as for a ride to Windy Hills, he was happy to take me, once there I realized just how long it would have taken me to walk it, so we got there in 15 minutes, where it would have taken me 3 hours to hike the road. I had called the guy at the Windy Hills; he had a spot for me with running water and an electric outlet. Hey, plus indoor toilet and shower. Hey, I had a hot shower, washed my clothes out, and felt clean all over for the first time in 3 days. I met a guy at the camp ground and we talked about my adventure i.e. hike, he has a trail, year round at the camp ground, he said he was a 2 pack a day man and knew he could not hike, his adventure was driving the 4 wheeler around the camp grounds. He said that only half jokingly. He was in his early 50's by my guess.
June 27th Bivouac
June 27
Very good trail today, verses yesterday, did have to take water from a drainage ditch, it was clear and cold, but had to treat it, it was the type of spot one would drive by and not even consider, or notice that there was a very valuable substance just over the edge of the road. Of course, as someone in a car, one does not think about needing water or anything else, you just drive over to the store, but back packing, what you have is what is on your back, and water, as I said earlier is where you find it, and one is very happy to have found it. I did 12 miles in 10 hours today, the best so far. At around 5 pm I stopped at a large set of buildings, asked the man if I could get water he said yes, I told him I was hoping to get to the boy scout camp by night fall but it did not look like I was going to make it. He said it was an easy 3 miles once over the first very steep hill, and that I should make it in not time. (experience, no way, it would be 8pm by the time I got here and would be really worn out), I hiked the hill, found a flat spot and camped. There were allot of 4 wheelers running around in the valley, but they stopped when it got dusk. It rained last night, found that the tent designer did a mistake, did not cover the door zipper with anything, the zipper was a porous. I figured out a solution with a small tarp and did not get too much water inside -- but I was unhappy. I know the solution now, but what I need is 4 clothespins.
Very good trail today, verses yesterday, did have to take water from a drainage ditch, it was clear and cold, but had to treat it, it was the type of spot one would drive by and not even consider, or notice that there was a very valuable substance just over the edge of the road. Of course, as someone in a car, one does not think about needing water or anything else, you just drive over to the store, but back packing, what you have is what is on your back, and water, as I said earlier is where you find it, and one is very happy to have found it. I did 12 miles in 10 hours today, the best so far. At around 5 pm I stopped at a large set of buildings, asked the man if I could get water he said yes, I told him I was hoping to get to the boy scout camp by night fall but it did not look like I was going to make it. He said it was an easy 3 miles once over the first very steep hill, and that I should make it in not time. (experience, no way, it would be 8pm by the time I got here and would be really worn out), I hiked the hill, found a flat spot and camped. There were allot of 4 wheelers running around in the valley, but they stopped when it got dusk. It rained last night, found that the tent designer did a mistake, did not cover the door zipper with anything, the zipper was a porous. I figured out a solution with a small tarp and did not get too much water inside -- but I was unhappy. I know the solution now, but what I need is 4 clothespins.
June 28th, Portageville, NY
June 28
Hike the Easy Trail the guy talked about last evening, he was right it was easy, and I was right it would have been 8 pm or so when I got there. I road walked to a main road, and started hitchhiking, allot of car drivers waved, sooooooooooooo that was not help, then and emergency response car drove past -- he came back and asked if I was ok -- I said yes-- he drove off -- thought later I should have told him about the blister I have on a toe, maybe I would have gotten a ride from him, one guy on a work crew stopped and asked where I was going, I said Portageville, he said he would be back in 2 hours from his job and would give me a ride if I was still there, ok so that was better, then a mid 50's hippie looking/dressed farmer stopped back after passing by, and said he would take me to P-ville, he did, save me a long road walk.
I got to the Geneses Inn, met Vinie and Lou, two guys from NY city, one from Manhattan the other from Long Island, they went to HS together, and a friend of theirs bought the Inn 2 1/2 years ago, Vinnie has been a painter all his life, said that 3 years ago the painting dried up (I can relate to that, no jobs in a year for me painting in Wis.) the guy who bought the Inn was a HS class mate, called and asked him if he wanted to paint the outside of the Inn, Vinnie said ok, and 2 years later he is still working on remodeling the inside and outside. The place is done in 1910-1930, has antiques that are valuable I image, Portageville in its day was a railroad town, it was a destination location for people from the big cities to come for a weekend or week in the country. Pictures on the walls show the trail station, railroad, and the monster bridge over the river, and various buildings. There were 4 Inns in town at one time, there use to be an annual potato festival here, the building across the street was on the vaudeville circuit.
Neither of the guys owns a car, they take the Greyhound back to NY. They cannot imagine hiking or being in the woods. They are fascinated by my journey both on the FLT and the AT. The Inn does not take credit cards, I only had money for one night, and they said they would work it out with the owner for me to pay later. They seem to enjoy the company. It is a working bed and breakfast, they gave me a steak dinner last night and we talked wild life, camping, and Portageville, and painting remodeling. They are two NY guys, what more can I say. They have made my stay, like the old days on the AT or when a traveler was a welcome guest to bring news or some interesting information. The room I am in is hand carved wood, Birdseye maple, and 30's pictures, with a modern bathroom.
Hike the Easy Trail the guy talked about last evening, he was right it was easy, and I was right it would have been 8 pm or so when I got there. I road walked to a main road, and started hitchhiking, allot of car drivers waved, sooooooooooooo that was not help, then and emergency response car drove past -- he came back and asked if I was ok -- I said yes-- he drove off -- thought later I should have told him about the blister I have on a toe, maybe I would have gotten a ride from him, one guy on a work crew stopped and asked where I was going, I said Portageville, he said he would be back in 2 hours from his job and would give me a ride if I was still there, ok so that was better, then a mid 50's hippie looking/dressed farmer stopped back after passing by, and said he would take me to P-ville, he did, save me a long road walk.
I got to the Geneses Inn, met Vinie and Lou, two guys from NY city, one from Manhattan the other from Long Island, they went to HS together, and a friend of theirs bought the Inn 2 1/2 years ago, Vinnie has been a painter all his life, said that 3 years ago the painting dried up (I can relate to that, no jobs in a year for me painting in Wis.) the guy who bought the Inn was a HS class mate, called and asked him if he wanted to paint the outside of the Inn, Vinnie said ok, and 2 years later he is still working on remodeling the inside and outside. The place is done in 1910-1930, has antiques that are valuable I image, Portageville in its day was a railroad town, it was a destination location for people from the big cities to come for a weekend or week in the country. Pictures on the walls show the trail station, railroad, and the monster bridge over the river, and various buildings. There were 4 Inns in town at one time, there use to be an annual potato festival here, the building across the street was on the vaudeville circuit.
Neither of the guys owns a car, they take the Greyhound back to NY. They cannot imagine hiking or being in the woods. They are fascinated by my journey both on the FLT and the AT. The Inn does not take credit cards, I only had money for one night, and they said they would work it out with the owner for me to pay later. They seem to enjoy the company. It is a working bed and breakfast, they gave me a steak dinner last night and we talked wild life, camping, and Portageville, and painting remodeling. They are two NY guys, what more can I say. They have made my stay, like the old days on the AT or when a traveler was a welcome guest to bring news or some interesting information. The room I am in is hand carved wood, Birdseye maple, and 30's pictures, with a modern bathroom.
June 29th Portageville, NY
June 29 Wed
A day of rest, I can feel my body recovering, I am going to plan another 5 days to N. Hornell, then 5 days to Hammondsport and then decide what to do next, by then I will be almost 4 weeks into the 6 week - maybe 7 - of the hike, it is clear that I am not going to complete a through hike of the FLT, if I look back on the AT hike, by about 6 weeks, I was starting to consistently do 12-15 mile days, for the FLT, 6 weeks is all the time allotted for the whole hike. I will be healthier than when I started, but nothing like the AT when I finished, but hey, in 6 months of hiking one should be in good physical condition. Will pack my bag, 5 days of food sure feels heavy. The trail for the next 2 days looks short on water, and the terrain, according to the read out on the map, there is one really bad stretch with deep gullies. We will see.
A day of rest, I can feel my body recovering, I am going to plan another 5 days to N. Hornell, then 5 days to Hammondsport and then decide what to do next, by then I will be almost 4 weeks into the 6 week - maybe 7 - of the hike, it is clear that I am not going to complete a through hike of the FLT, if I look back on the AT hike, by about 6 weeks, I was starting to consistently do 12-15 mile days, for the FLT, 6 weeks is all the time allotted for the whole hike. I will be healthier than when I started, but nothing like the AT when I finished, but hey, in 6 months of hiking one should be in good physical condition. Will pack my bag, 5 days of food sure feels heavy. The trail for the next 2 days looks short on water, and the terrain, according to the read out on the map, there is one really bad stretch with deep gullies. We will see.
June 30 Bivouac
June 30 Wed
Last night the owner’s wife, her 2 sisters and their 7 children came for a visit now that the schools are out for the summer. They had 2 large SUV's, lots of food, games, and DVD's. One of the interesting things about Vinnie and Lew, was their habit of eating and then leaving around at various places half eaten bags of potato chips. The Inn, served as a get away place form NY, City for these families. And possibly a tax write off, but it clearly was their place in the country, an 8-hour drive from NY, City. I stopped at a convenience store and drank 840 calories of chocolate milk. YUMMM Today was my longest distance, hit 3 miles an hour maybe more on the road walks, the FLT has allot of road walking, where the AT has minimal. About 50% road today. I made a wrong turn at a 3-road junction and took the wrong road. Once discovered, I had gone too far to back track, so I had to angle over east and south to hit another road that would take me to the Bivouac spot shown on the map. I had to cross a large creek where a bridge was out -- the dilemma was to take my boots off and wade or walk up stream or down and find a place to cross on some rocks. I opted for the look for rocks, did not find them, started throwing rocks into the creek to make a crossing which I eventually did, I was unhappy about the length of time the project took, because it was clearly faster to take the boots off and wade -- however there is a moral to the story, as has happened several times now, things come together in a helpful way. I continued the road walk up a couple of long stretches. I saw on the map that there was a road, Brewer Rd that lead off my final dirt road and lead to the Bivouac. Area. As I topped a hill, there was a woman standing in the road looking at her flower, we talked, she told me there was a big swamp where I planned to Bivouac and that she knew that Brewer Rd was now private. I said that I would have to take the chance due to the lateness of the evening and my water supply. We also talked about hip replacements, she had her's last Dec. and I two years ago. I started off down the road with my plan in mind. She and her husband pulled up beside me and asked if I would like a ride down to the next FLT road crossing. I said yes, they were from this area, but live in Florida during the winters. Sure enough there was a sign on Brewer Rd clearing stating that the road was closed. They drove 4 miles, which would have been my walk of 1 1/2 hours; we did in 5 min's. There was a second Bivouac. area about .3 of a mile from the road crossing, which I hiked back to and set up camp. The moral is, TIMING, while I was kicking myself for taking so long to cross the creek, it worked out that the lady was in the road when I got there, there was really a small window of opportunity, and I came through that window. Oh, yea of little faith !!!!!!!!.
Last night the owner’s wife, her 2 sisters and their 7 children came for a visit now that the schools are out for the summer. They had 2 large SUV's, lots of food, games, and DVD's. One of the interesting things about Vinnie and Lew, was their habit of eating and then leaving around at various places half eaten bags of potato chips. The Inn, served as a get away place form NY, City for these families. And possibly a tax write off, but it clearly was their place in the country, an 8-hour drive from NY, City. I stopped at a convenience store and drank 840 calories of chocolate milk. YUMMM Today was my longest distance, hit 3 miles an hour maybe more on the road walks, the FLT has allot of road walking, where the AT has minimal. About 50% road today. I made a wrong turn at a 3-road junction and took the wrong road. Once discovered, I had gone too far to back track, so I had to angle over east and south to hit another road that would take me to the Bivouac spot shown on the map. I had to cross a large creek where a bridge was out -- the dilemma was to take my boots off and wade or walk up stream or down and find a place to cross on some rocks. I opted for the look for rocks, did not find them, started throwing rocks into the creek to make a crossing which I eventually did, I was unhappy about the length of time the project took, because it was clearly faster to take the boots off and wade -- however there is a moral to the story, as has happened several times now, things come together in a helpful way. I continued the road walk up a couple of long stretches. I saw on the map that there was a road, Brewer Rd that lead off my final dirt road and lead to the Bivouac. Area. As I topped a hill, there was a woman standing in the road looking at her flower, we talked, she told me there was a big swamp where I planned to Bivouac and that she knew that Brewer Rd was now private. I said that I would have to take the chance due to the lateness of the evening and my water supply. We also talked about hip replacements, she had her's last Dec. and I two years ago. I started off down the road with my plan in mind. She and her husband pulled up beside me and asked if I would like a ride down to the next FLT road crossing. I said yes, they were from this area, but live in Florida during the winters. Sure enough there was a sign on Brewer Rd clearing stating that the road was closed. They drove 4 miles, which would have been my walk of 1 1/2 hours; we did in 5 min's. There was a second Bivouac. area about .3 of a mile from the road crossing, which I hiked back to and set up camp. The moral is, TIMING, while I was kicking myself for taking so long to cross the creek, it worked out that the lady was in the road when I got there, there was really a small window of opportunity, and I came through that window. Oh, yea of little faith !!!!!!!!.
July 1st Bivouac
July 1 Thur
Some really long hills today, I stopped early, i.e. 4:30 pm, my legs felt like they might cramp, set up camp by a beaver pond, frogs are already doing their songs, very cool and comfortable the last 2 days, seemed like I barely worked up a sweat covering 14 miles today. I may make it to Hornell tomorrow, will. I found my old rhythm of hiking/breathing/pace and walking stick movement today. Had an old RR bed stretch for 2 miles this morning, did it in an hour. Still no other long distance hikers except me.
Plus's for trail walk -- soft surface, cooler than the road, mature sounds and sights.
Neg's for trail walk -- irregular surface, mud, steeper hills and grades, bugs, unknown water sources
Plus's for road walk -- consistent surface, cars and trucks add a breeze when passing, can keep a steady pace, houses with lots of water.
Neg's for road walk -- Sun, hot surface, a wrong turn can be costly in time and effort, no bathroom spots.
Some really long hills today, I stopped early, i.e. 4:30 pm, my legs felt like they might cramp, set up camp by a beaver pond, frogs are already doing their songs, very cool and comfortable the last 2 days, seemed like I barely worked up a sweat covering 14 miles today. I may make it to Hornell tomorrow, will. I found my old rhythm of hiking/breathing/pace and walking stick movement today. Had an old RR bed stretch for 2 miles this morning, did it in an hour. Still no other long distance hikers except me.
Plus's for trail walk -- soft surface, cooler than the road, mature sounds and sights.
Neg's for trail walk -- irregular surface, mud, steeper hills and grades, bugs, unknown water sources
Plus's for road walk -- consistent surface, cars and trucks add a breeze when passing, can keep a steady pace, houses with lots of water.
Neg's for road walk -- Sun, hot surface, a wrong turn can be costly in time and effort, no bathroom spots.
July 2nd N. Hornell, NY
July 2 Friday
Long walk again today, cool temp. hot sun, I found a quarter beside the road, making it 28 cents found so far. I made it to Hornell by mid afternoon -- Econo Lodge, the mail lady arrived at the same time I did with my food box sent by Gina 3 days ago. She said she had seen me walking up a very long hill, i.e. Pennsylvania Hill Rd, earlier in the morning. She agreed it was a truly long hill. She also told me that the Post Office was 2 1/2 miles away, down town. Econo Lodge does not have a Laundromat or a computer for costumers (they let me check my email a couple of times during their less busy times), I then asked for a westward facing room with a balcony, which I got even though they were having trouble with their hot water that morning. So I hung my drying line out on the balcony supports, did my laundry, and hung it out to dry. It worked fine. Down the hill from the Econo Lodge, there is a Family Dollar store, a bar and grill (the 57 Club), a convience store, and a hardware store. None, of whom had 3 in webbing that I could make a new tump-line for my pack, the duck tape one I made at Portageville, did not last the whole segment of hike. The tump-line really does help me go uphill by easing the pressure off my shoulders making easier to take deep breaths. Once again, just like on the AT hike, I was overwhelmed with the choices of food and drink at a store. For 4 days, I had water and Energin-C, here there is water in a dozen forms of soda, tea, and bottle water both with and without flavoring. I bought a can of pork and beans and some flavored water. I overwhelmed the staff by wanting to pay for the products with a travelers check. We finally got it handled, when the supervisor of the shift called the owner to find out what to do.
Long walk again today, cool temp. hot sun, I found a quarter beside the road, making it 28 cents found so far. I made it to Hornell by mid afternoon -- Econo Lodge, the mail lady arrived at the same time I did with my food box sent by Gina 3 days ago. She said she had seen me walking up a very long hill, i.e. Pennsylvania Hill Rd, earlier in the morning. She agreed it was a truly long hill. She also told me that the Post Office was 2 1/2 miles away, down town. Econo Lodge does not have a Laundromat or a computer for costumers (they let me check my email a couple of times during their less busy times), I then asked for a westward facing room with a balcony, which I got even though they were having trouble with their hot water that morning. So I hung my drying line out on the balcony supports, did my laundry, and hung it out to dry. It worked fine. Down the hill from the Econo Lodge, there is a Family Dollar store, a bar and grill (the 57 Club), a convience store, and a hardware store. None, of whom had 3 in webbing that I could make a new tump-line for my pack, the duck tape one I made at Portageville, did not last the whole segment of hike. The tump-line really does help me go uphill by easing the pressure off my shoulders making easier to take deep breaths. Once again, just like on the AT hike, I was overwhelmed with the choices of food and drink at a store. For 4 days, I had water and Energin-C, here there is water in a dozen forms of soda, tea, and bottle water both with and without flavoring. I bought a can of pork and beans and some flavored water. I overwhelmed the staff by wanting to pay for the products with a travelers check. We finally got it handled, when the supervisor of the shift called the owner to find out what to do.
July 3rd N. Hornell, NY
July 3 Sat
A rest day, the only physical problem is a right foot toe that is blistered and very sore. I plan to experiment with a different shoe lacing and a cheap Dr. Schulz’s pad. Late yesterday, I realized that I am feeling the best I have felt -- physically, mentally, emotionally, and spiritually in 5 years. At that time I gave up long distance hiking to help others. Eventually my hip would have curtailed my hiking, but I still had a couple of years where I could have hiked. Today is leisure, rest, food, meditation and organization for the next 4-day stretch of trail. I got fairly philosophical today. Will talk about those thoughts later.
Go to
http://worldwidegodproject.blogspot.com/
A rest day, the only physical problem is a right foot toe that is blistered and very sore. I plan to experiment with a different shoe lacing and a cheap Dr. Schulz’s pad. Late yesterday, I realized that I am feeling the best I have felt -- physically, mentally, emotionally, and spiritually in 5 years. At that time I gave up long distance hiking to help others. Eventually my hip would have curtailed my hiking, but I still had a couple of years where I could have hiked. Today is leisure, rest, food, meditation and organization for the next 4-day stretch of trail. I got fairly philosophical today. Will talk about those thoughts later.
Go to
http://worldwidegodproject.blogspot.com/
July 4th Burt Hill Forest Lean-To
July 4 Sun
12-mile day, 10 years ago today I was hiking the AT, came into a parking lot where people were picnicking. A family was eating before they went out on their boat to watch the local fireworks. They fed me and sent food along with me to that night's shelter. Tonight, I am alone at a shelter, made my own fireworks i.e. a fire in the fire pit.
What do people miss when they drive by with their windows closed both on the highway or back roads? tracks of deer, fawns, turkey, raccoon, possum, bear, bees in the flowers, butterflies in the flowers, all the little flowers and mushrooms, horse prints, and ant tugging something back to the nest, a fox, and eagle, squirrel, Sounds of birds, wind, frogs, bees, flies, mosquitoes, chipmunk squeals, the call of a raven or crow.
Something you can count on: if a none hiker says, "oh, it is only 1/2 mile down the road", you know it is at least 1 1/2 miles down the road.
There were several warnings around the shelter about bears being in the area i.e. hang your food bag high in the tree. I am in the Burt Hill Forest Shelter this evening, one of the few over the last 100 miles. There is no cell phone service for Verizon in this location, so "I can not hear me (others) now."
12-mile day, 10 years ago today I was hiking the AT, came into a parking lot where people were picnicking. A family was eating before they went out on their boat to watch the local fireworks. They fed me and sent food along with me to that night's shelter. Tonight, I am alone at a shelter, made my own fireworks i.e. a fire in the fire pit.
What do people miss when they drive by with their windows closed both on the highway or back roads? tracks of deer, fawns, turkey, raccoon, possum, bear, bees in the flowers, butterflies in the flowers, all the little flowers and mushrooms, horse prints, and ant tugging something back to the nest, a fox, and eagle, squirrel, Sounds of birds, wind, frogs, bees, flies, mosquitoes, chipmunk squeals, the call of a raven or crow.
Something you can count on: if a none hiker says, "oh, it is only 1/2 mile down the road", you know it is at least 1 1/2 miles down the road.
There were several warnings around the shelter about bears being in the area i.e. hang your food bag high in the tree. I am in the Burt Hill Forest Shelter this evening, one of the few over the last 100 miles. There is no cell phone service for Verizon in this location, so "I can not hear me (others) now."
July 5th, Bivouac, west of Hammondsport, NY
July 5th, Monday
I rediscovered my "pole feet", today i.e. it is when, just like skiing one uses the poles for balance, push off to redirect the momentum of the forward motion. Also rediscovered my swing stride for going up hill, it allows me a steady pace, though not fast, but longer between breaks on the uphill climb.
I started my journey 17 days ago; it feels like 2 years ago. I am beginning to feel a little more confident that I can make the full 7 weeks of hiking.
Question: How do you know you are exhausted ? When you drop a sunflower seed from the Corp bag, and ant grabs it, and you get into a tug of war with the ant, and the ant wins.
Question: When a road is has Hill in it's name, is it predictable that it is a significant hill ??
Yes !!!!!!
Question: if a road is named Smith Hill, is there a Smith farm at the top as well as it being a long hill? Answer: there use to be a Smith family there 75 years ago, Tom, age 78 bought the farm 50 years ago, but the Smith family was long before his purchase. We had a talk about wood cutting and heating one's house with wood. (and yes Smith Hill Rd was a 2-mile steep uphill walk with no shade)
Observation: The joy of the downhill is balanced by the work of going uphill. Corollary: for every downhill there is an uphill -- damn it anyway.
I rediscovered my "pole feet", today i.e. it is when, just like skiing one uses the poles for balance, push off to redirect the momentum of the forward motion. Also rediscovered my swing stride for going up hill, it allows me a steady pace, though not fast, but longer between breaks on the uphill climb.
I started my journey 17 days ago; it feels like 2 years ago. I am beginning to feel a little more confident that I can make the full 7 weeks of hiking.
Question: How do you know you are exhausted ? When you drop a sunflower seed from the Corp bag, and ant grabs it, and you get into a tug of war with the ant, and the ant wins.
Question: When a road is has Hill in it's name, is it predictable that it is a significant hill ??
Yes !!!!!!
Question: if a road is named Smith Hill, is there a Smith farm at the top as well as it being a long hill? Answer: there use to be a Smith family there 75 years ago, Tom, age 78 bought the farm 50 years ago, but the Smith family was long before his purchase. We had a talk about wood cutting and heating one's house with wood. (and yes Smith Hill Rd was a 2-mile steep uphill walk with no shade)
Observation: The joy of the downhill is balanced by the work of going uphill. Corollary: for every downhill there is an uphill -- damn it anyway.
July 6th Hammondsport -- Ithaca, NY
July 6th Hammondsport, NY-- Ithaca, NY
98 degrees in the shade, high humidity, multiple breaks to wring out shirt, drink water, and cool off. Stopped at a house to get water at 4 pm, Bill heats his home with firewood he cuts and splits. He is 77, (I think I heard a similar report this morning that is activity keeps a man healthy); we talked about the advantages of electric verses gas powered log splitters. He took me to Hammondsport, where Pat came and picked me up. While I had planned this rest break 1 1/2 weeks ago, it works out that this is the hottest weather of the summer so far in this area. It is predicted to stay high 90's the next 2 days. Took potassium tables today, which help prevent leg cramping. I could feel the cramps coming on at various times. The relacing of my boots has made a big difference in how my feet feel after a long hot day.
Question: How do you know the road is really hot? When it plays tar baby with your boots.
Time for a 2-day vacation. Yea !!!!!!
98 degrees in the shade, high humidity, multiple breaks to wring out shirt, drink water, and cool off. Stopped at a house to get water at 4 pm, Bill heats his home with firewood he cuts and splits. He is 77, (I think I heard a similar report this morning that is activity keeps a man healthy); we talked about the advantages of electric verses gas powered log splitters. He took me to Hammondsport, where Pat came and picked me up. While I had planned this rest break 1 1/2 weeks ago, it works out that this is the hottest weather of the summer so far in this area. It is predicted to stay high 90's the next 2 days. Took potassium tables today, which help prevent leg cramping. I could feel the cramps coming on at various times. The relacing of my boots has made a big difference in how my feet feel after a long hot day.
Question: How do you know the road is really hot? When it plays tar baby with your boots.
Time for a 2-day vacation. Yea !!!!!!
July 7 and 8th Ithaca, NY 300 miles
July 7, Wed July 8 Thur
Gina and Pat took me over to Tim and Julie's for a dinner. YMMMMMMM. working on my new schedule and doing equipment repair. Plan to go back to Hammondsport and start where I left off. It is 100 mile from there to Ithaca
Gina and Pat took me over to Tim and Julie's for a dinner. YMMMMMMM. working on my new schedule and doing equipment repair. Plan to go back to Hammondsport and start where I left off. It is 100 mile from there to Ithaca
July 9th Hammondsport
July 9, Hammondsport, NY
Gina and Drew drove me to where I stopped 2 days ago. On the way there, we saw the police car hiding in the woods at the end of a long down hill, it is where Pat got his ticket the other night. It was a classic speed trap of old. A 1 1/2 mile up hill after being dropped off, 85 degrees, high humidity, took me 2 hours to reach the top, and then had a 2-mile walk on a slanted path. Question: When you get into camp, how do you know the direction of the hill's slant? You are tilted 3 inches to the left or right. I decided to make camp early this afternoon, the next bivouac area was 4 miles away and it was 3 pm, 3pm is an early stop, but it had been a hard walk in the heat, so I chose to stop, the guide page said there was a reliable water source near by, I looked at a dry creek bed just before the turn off to the campsite, no water, had enough for the evening and morning. Set up camp, then the thunder and dark clouds started showing in the sky. Got everything ready for rain. At 5 pm it stormed, I went into the tent. My creative solution to the zipper leak, i.e. my little tarp and 4 clothes pins worked fine, but there were some leaks on the sides once the fabric got saturated. Kept my sleeping bag dry, one of the things you want to do with down. Eat a cold rice dinner; it was soaking while I was getting camp ready. Some close lightening strikes, or at least they seemed close. Figured, under the circumstances, I was a safe as I could be on my plastic blowup mattress. The tent is ok for a rain shower, but not a storm. For some reason, this afternoon, I began thinking about how the old Eskimo, pre modern, survived. Now there is a survival skill far beyond my comprehension. I have read about the old ways, the skills and mind set to survive and carry on the community are amazing from just what little I know.
Gina and Drew drove me to where I stopped 2 days ago. On the way there, we saw the police car hiding in the woods at the end of a long down hill, it is where Pat got his ticket the other night. It was a classic speed trap of old. A 1 1/2 mile up hill after being dropped off, 85 degrees, high humidity, took me 2 hours to reach the top, and then had a 2-mile walk on a slanted path. Question: When you get into camp, how do you know the direction of the hill's slant? You are tilted 3 inches to the left or right. I decided to make camp early this afternoon, the next bivouac area was 4 miles away and it was 3 pm, 3pm is an early stop, but it had been a hard walk in the heat, so I chose to stop, the guide page said there was a reliable water source near by, I looked at a dry creek bed just before the turn off to the campsite, no water, had enough for the evening and morning. Set up camp, then the thunder and dark clouds started showing in the sky. Got everything ready for rain. At 5 pm it stormed, I went into the tent. My creative solution to the zipper leak, i.e. my little tarp and 4 clothes pins worked fine, but there were some leaks on the sides once the fabric got saturated. Kept my sleeping bag dry, one of the things you want to do with down. Eat a cold rice dinner; it was soaking while I was getting camp ready. Some close lightening strikes, or at least they seemed close. Figured, under the circumstances, I was a safe as I could be on my plastic blowup mattress. The tent is ok for a rain shower, but not a storm. For some reason, this afternoon, I began thinking about how the old Eskimo, pre modern, survived. Now there is a survival skill far beyond my comprehension. I have read about the old ways, the skills and mind set to survive and carry on the community are amazing from just what little I know.
July 10th Bivouac
July 10 Sat, 22 days from base
I looked for the reliable water source, but could not find it, or lets say, I walked over 1/4 of a mile and did not find it. I finished packing up camp and went back to the main trail. There in the little creek bed was a 12 long, 1 in. deep running stretch of water. There was a 3 in pool that I filtered out of, 4 liters. I had filter rainwater for the morning and part of the afternoon. Then I hiked through 1 mile of wet grass, no way to keep one's boots or legs dry. Allot of mushrooms came up last night with the rain, saw a number groups of Indian Pipe. Some ripe red raspberries today. I ran out of all my water this afternoon about 3pm. I came to a road and there was a woman on a riding lawn mower. I asked her if I could fill my water bottles at the outside faucet. She said she would take them inside and fill them for me, and then invited me on to her screened in porch. She brought not only the filled bottles but also a glass of water with ice cubes in it. We talked of the "old days", the spring house on her grandfathers farm in PA, the cast iron wood stove and fry pans, the horses, eating whatever game was available or hunted. She said she was 83; 3 generations lived within walking distance of her house. The road at the next junction was named for her family. I hear a scanner chattering away inside and asked her about it. She said it was her late husband's and she kept in on. There were married 58 years. He recently died of cancer. She said, Hospice had helped her so much. I told her about my work with Life Review and Vigil for Hospice in Janesville. She offered the "family camp site" across the road for me to use. Told her I needed to make another 3 miles so that I could get to town on time. A long road walk up a very long hill. Sometimes when I look back at the hill I have just walked up, I wonder where I got the energy to do it. But, the old hip pocket still has some reserve I guess. Question: how do you know you are the only one on the trail? all the spider webs that hit you in the face as you walk down the trail.
I looked for the reliable water source, but could not find it, or lets say, I walked over 1/4 of a mile and did not find it. I finished packing up camp and went back to the main trail. There in the little creek bed was a 12 long, 1 in. deep running stretch of water. There was a 3 in pool that I filtered out of, 4 liters. I had filter rainwater for the morning and part of the afternoon. Then I hiked through 1 mile of wet grass, no way to keep one's boots or legs dry. Allot of mushrooms came up last night with the rain, saw a number groups of Indian Pipe. Some ripe red raspberries today. I ran out of all my water this afternoon about 3pm. I came to a road and there was a woman on a riding lawn mower. I asked her if I could fill my water bottles at the outside faucet. She said she would take them inside and fill them for me, and then invited me on to her screened in porch. She brought not only the filled bottles but also a glass of water with ice cubes in it. We talked of the "old days", the spring house on her grandfathers farm in PA, the cast iron wood stove and fry pans, the horses, eating whatever game was available or hunted. She said she was 83; 3 generations lived within walking distance of her house. The road at the next junction was named for her family. I hear a scanner chattering away inside and asked her about it. She said it was her late husband's and she kept in on. There were married 58 years. He recently died of cancer. She said, Hospice had helped her so much. I told her about my work with Life Review and Vigil for Hospice in Janesville. She offered the "family camp site" across the road for me to use. Told her I needed to make another 3 miles so that I could get to town on time. A long road walk up a very long hill. Sometimes when I look back at the hill I have just walked up, I wonder where I got the energy to do it. But, the old hip pocket still has some reserve I guess. Question: how do you know you are the only one on the trail? all the spider webs that hit you in the face as you walk down the trail.
July 11 th Bivouac east of Hammondsport, NY
July 11, Sunday
A 3 mile hill, 12 switchbacks up, 12 switchbacks down, 11 miles of walking in the woods, no road walk today. Over all my best day. Came across, 6 Nations Cemetery this afternoon, the oldest head stone I found was 1833, saw some 1860 and 70's. Camped just off the trail, there were a couple of Bard-owls having a competion in the neighborhood. Very restful night. Observation: in my other world, I buy a bag of trail mix and eat it by the handful, here I eat it one item and piece at a time. So, which morsel do you eat first? I start with the chocolate chips because they melt from the heat of the sun, then I go to the M & Ms, then the peanuts, then the dried fruit. Followed by a power bar and a sport supplement powered drink. Now there is a lunch. We do over eat. We do things by the handful and do not pay much attention to the flavor, texture, or aroma. Every little thing has a new meaning, i.e. sounds, water, food, footing, temperature, humidity, people you see to talk with.
A 3 mile hill, 12 switchbacks up, 12 switchbacks down, 11 miles of walking in the woods, no road walk today. Over all my best day. Came across, 6 Nations Cemetery this afternoon, the oldest head stone I found was 1833, saw some 1860 and 70's. Camped just off the trail, there were a couple of Bard-owls having a competion in the neighborhood. Very restful night. Observation: in my other world, I buy a bag of trail mix and eat it by the handful, here I eat it one item and piece at a time. So, which morsel do you eat first? I start with the chocolate chips because they melt from the heat of the sun, then I go to the M & Ms, then the peanuts, then the dried fruit. Followed by a power bar and a sport supplement powered drink. Now there is a lunch. We do over eat. We do things by the handful and do not pay much attention to the flavor, texture, or aroma. Every little thing has a new meaning, i.e. sounds, water, food, footing, temperature, humidity, people you see to talk with.
July 12th Watkins Glenn
July 12 Monday
Made a wrong turn this morning, ended up in a little town, Tom, a local carpenter came over and spoke with me. He had done Boy scouts for 20 years, so we swapped Boy scout stories, his from his troop, and me from Worthington State Forest in NJ. We also talked remodeling etc. He told me that yesterday, a large back bear had been sited about a mile or so from were I was camping last night. Saw a black squirrel this afternoon. At one point on the trail, about 5 miles out from Watkins Glen, it sounded as if the racetrack was just over the next hill. Heard racecars for 2 or so hours this morning. Question: if a road is named Sugar Hill Rd, what does that mean? that 45 years ago the area was a major maple sugar supplier. Got to Seneca Lodge late this afternoon. Nice motel room, a large dining room with a salad bar. I attempted to eat 1/2 of it but did not make it. But 5 trips did put a dent into it. The contrast still gets to me, i.e. going from one world to the other rapidly. For 4 days, I walk in the woods, eat backpack food, drink the water I can find. Then in less than an hour, I am in a motel, taking a shower, starting my gear cleanup, and then in a dining room with so many choices, I am not sure where to begin. I managed, yea for adaptability.
Made a wrong turn this morning, ended up in a little town, Tom, a local carpenter came over and spoke with me. He had done Boy scouts for 20 years, so we swapped Boy scout stories, his from his troop, and me from Worthington State Forest in NJ. We also talked remodeling etc. He told me that yesterday, a large back bear had been sited about a mile or so from were I was camping last night. Saw a black squirrel this afternoon. At one point on the trail, about 5 miles out from Watkins Glen, it sounded as if the racetrack was just over the next hill. Heard racecars for 2 or so hours this morning. Question: if a road is named Sugar Hill Rd, what does that mean? that 45 years ago the area was a major maple sugar supplier. Got to Seneca Lodge late this afternoon. Nice motel room, a large dining room with a salad bar. I attempted to eat 1/2 of it but did not make it. But 5 trips did put a dent into it. The contrast still gets to me, i.e. going from one world to the other rapidly. For 4 days, I walk in the woods, eat backpack food, drink the water I can find. Then in less than an hour, I am in a motel, taking a shower, starting my gear cleanup, and then in a dining room with so many choices, I am not sure where to begin. I managed, yea for adaptability.
July 13th, Watkins Glen, NY
July13, 25 days from base, Watkins Glen, NY, next stop Ithaca,
A 0 day, I keep having to remind myself that I do not have to prove anything. Just doing what I am doing is ok. No records to set, no mileage to be set, and the money I am spending is for a good cause, i.e. my health. Yesterday, I saw the illusive and mystical "Sun Blaze", it may or may not be rare, but it is like the native American trickster. It is when you have not seen a white blaze mark on a tree for awhile, and you look into the woods, and there is this white blaze mark on the tree, but you can see that there is not path to it, and then it fades as you look at it or you move a little bit. So far the trickster has not caught me. I find that I can feel myself moving on the path towards to OCEAN over the horizon, life is not over at 70 like I was feeling 4-5 months ago, but I can see that I and my body are not 60 anymore. Everyday, I find myself a little amazed with what I am doing. It is not an ego amazement, nor is the satisfaction of having overcome the first struggles of the first 1 1/2 weeks. It is truly one day at a time, one mile at a time, one city at a time. Ya!
I had a very dissatisfying interaction with the lady at the front desk of the Lodge this afternoon. I went down town to the library. To get to the downtown, I had to walk down a mile long hill. The day was hot with high humidity. I worked up a heavy sweat walking back up the hill later in the afternoon. I went into the office part of the Lodge. She was an older lady with white hair. I do not know if she was an owner or not. I told her that I had just walked up the hill from downtown and asked if there was a way for me to get a fan for the cabin. Her response was, "ya, if you go to Walmart and buy one". I said that was not practical since I was hiking the FLT. She then said, "a fan would probably blow the fuses". I looked at her in disbelief. I knew there were fans in the motel part and I knew that there was an electric heater in the cabin that drew alloat more amps than a fan. She then said in a distainful voice, "Sorry we dont have fans". I gave up at that point and went to the cabin, opened up all the windows and decided I would not eat at their resturant in the evening. It was the only negative experience I had during the whole hike from a motel.
A 0 day, I keep having to remind myself that I do not have to prove anything. Just doing what I am doing is ok. No records to set, no mileage to be set, and the money I am spending is for a good cause, i.e. my health. Yesterday, I saw the illusive and mystical "Sun Blaze", it may or may not be rare, but it is like the native American trickster. It is when you have not seen a white blaze mark on a tree for awhile, and you look into the woods, and there is this white blaze mark on the tree, but you can see that there is not path to it, and then it fades as you look at it or you move a little bit. So far the trickster has not caught me. I find that I can feel myself moving on the path towards to OCEAN over the horizon, life is not over at 70 like I was feeling 4-5 months ago, but I can see that I and my body are not 60 anymore. Everyday, I find myself a little amazed with what I am doing. It is not an ego amazement, nor is the satisfaction of having overcome the first struggles of the first 1 1/2 weeks. It is truly one day at a time, one mile at a time, one city at a time. Ya!
I had a very dissatisfying interaction with the lady at the front desk of the Lodge this afternoon. I went down town to the library. To get to the downtown, I had to walk down a mile long hill. The day was hot with high humidity. I worked up a heavy sweat walking back up the hill later in the afternoon. I went into the office part of the Lodge. She was an older lady with white hair. I do not know if she was an owner or not. I told her that I had just walked up the hill from downtown and asked if there was a way for me to get a fan for the cabin. Her response was, "ya, if you go to Walmart and buy one". I said that was not practical since I was hiking the FLT. She then said, "a fan would probably blow the fuses". I looked at her in disbelief. I knew there were fans in the motel part and I knew that there was an electric heater in the cabin that drew alloat more amps than a fan. She then said in a distainful voice, "Sorry we dont have fans". I gave up at that point and went to the cabin, opened up all the windows and decided I would not eat at their resturant in the evening. It was the only negative experience I had during the whole hike from a motel.
July 14th, Roger Hill Lean-To
July 14 Wed,
Started from Watkins Glenn with a thick fog and a cappuccino at the convince store at the bottom of the hill. While I was standing by my backpack drinking the coffee, two SUV's drove up towing a BMW racing car each. The men had on their special suits and shoes, clearly getting ready to do track work on the speedway. What a contract in modes of travel, racecars verses backpacker on foot. Had to wonder, just how many hiking trips I could financially cover with just one of those cars???????
It looked like rain was coming, so to prevent the rain, I put on my backpack cover -- it worked, no rain.
Tonight I am in a shelter by a pound. After I filtered 4 liters, I took a swim/bath. I get to get to bed clean tonight. The mosquitoes got so bad in the shelter; I put my tent up in the shelter and was able to sleep without the buzzing of the creatures in my ears.
Some of my little tricks of hiking are coming back to me i.e. when going down hill, lean back slightly and let the heel of the boot do much of the braking, rather than use the knees and thighs, or you can use the weight of the pack -- slightly forward helps to maintain the forward momentum, or slightly back keeps one from building up too much speed going down hill, or using a root or rock as a lever for forward leverage.
My hiking is getting more smooth and even, fewer and shorter breaks and pauses, especially on the up hill climb. And as my hiking gets more automatic, I find that I have started "thinking", realized that all my concentration has gone towards keeping my body in motion, balanced, avoiding mistakes such as stepping on a wet log or rock, or stepping between the tree roots so as not to slip. When I look back on the earlier weeks, my body hurt so much at times the discomfort blocked out my other thoughts.
At this point I am feeling some confidence, but like I would say on my AT Thru hike, I will only know that I have made it, when I take that last step of the hike.
I sat on a tree stump for 30-45 min's this afternoon, listening to the birds, watching a dragonfly, and watching barn swallows do their aerobatics.
Started from Watkins Glenn with a thick fog and a cappuccino at the convince store at the bottom of the hill. While I was standing by my backpack drinking the coffee, two SUV's drove up towing a BMW racing car each. The men had on their special suits and shoes, clearly getting ready to do track work on the speedway. What a contract in modes of travel, racecars verses backpacker on foot. Had to wonder, just how many hiking trips I could financially cover with just one of those cars???????
It looked like rain was coming, so to prevent the rain, I put on my backpack cover -- it worked, no rain.
Tonight I am in a shelter by a pound. After I filtered 4 liters, I took a swim/bath. I get to get to bed clean tonight. The mosquitoes got so bad in the shelter; I put my tent up in the shelter and was able to sleep without the buzzing of the creatures in my ears.
Some of my little tricks of hiking are coming back to me i.e. when going down hill, lean back slightly and let the heel of the boot do much of the braking, rather than use the knees and thighs, or you can use the weight of the pack -- slightly forward helps to maintain the forward momentum, or slightly back keeps one from building up too much speed going down hill, or using a root or rock as a lever for forward leverage.
My hiking is getting more smooth and even, fewer and shorter breaks and pauses, especially on the up hill climb. And as my hiking gets more automatic, I find that I have started "thinking", realized that all my concentration has gone towards keeping my body in motion, balanced, avoiding mistakes such as stepping on a wet log or rock, or stepping between the tree roots so as not to slip. When I look back on the earlier weeks, my body hurt so much at times the discomfort blocked out my other thoughts.
At this point I am feeling some confidence, but like I would say on my AT Thru hike, I will only know that I have made it, when I take that last step of the hike.
I sat on a tree stump for 30-45 min's this afternoon, listening to the birds, watching a dragonfly, and watching barn swallows do their aerobatics.
July 15th
July 15
Roger Hill Lean-to, sitting on the platform with everything packed. Contemplating -- at different times in the last 1-2 years, I have said that I have done ok with my life, small town boy makes good so to speak. Today was some thing deeper, deeper inside, and it was, Yes, I have done ok with my 70 years. I have done more than survive. I have helped others. And to the best that I know, I have done serious harm to anyone. My father could have said the same thing, but he never talked about such things to anyone as far as I know. He always shut down when I would attempt to get him to talk personally about his inner thoughts.
My surgery hip is a little sensitive today. I know I need work done on my left boot; the heel is severely worn down.
Passed by a war local county war memorial mid-day. There was a grandfather there with 2 grandsons telling them about the memorial. I got tearful, remembered my efforts with the Viet Nam memorial in northern Wisconsin. We talked of the times. He was a HS teacher and then a guidance counselor during the VN era. He knew some of the young men whose names were on the bricks around the statue.
There was an up hill today that I swear was laid out by a mountain goat -- I need say no more.
Stayed by a stream tonight, did the same thing as the pond, filter 4 liters, and then wash off.
Roger Hill Lean-to, sitting on the platform with everything packed. Contemplating -- at different times in the last 1-2 years, I have said that I have done ok with my life, small town boy makes good so to speak. Today was some thing deeper, deeper inside, and it was, Yes, I have done ok with my 70 years. I have done more than survive. I have helped others. And to the best that I know, I have done serious harm to anyone. My father could have said the same thing, but he never talked about such things to anyone as far as I know. He always shut down when I would attempt to get him to talk personally about his inner thoughts.
My surgery hip is a little sensitive today. I know I need work done on my left boot; the heel is severely worn down.
Passed by a war local county war memorial mid-day. There was a grandfather there with 2 grandsons telling them about the memorial. I got tearful, remembered my efforts with the Viet Nam memorial in northern Wisconsin. We talked of the times. He was a HS teacher and then a guidance counselor during the VN era. He knew some of the young men whose names were on the bricks around the statue.
There was an up hill today that I swear was laid out by a mountain goat -- I need say no more.
Stayed by a stream tonight, did the same thing as the pond, filter 4 liters, and then wash off.
July16th, Ithaca, NY
July 16, Ithaca, NY
Good long hike this morning, got to the pickup location around 1 pm. It was a fresh farm fruit and veg. place. So what does a 300 mile hiker get at a stand like this??? 12 ears of sweet corn, 1 cantaloupe, 1 watermelon, 1 power aid drink. Gina and Drew arrived, and on the way back Gina stopped at a local beer making company where they give samples of their 7 flavors of beer. Now that is a topper for the hot sweaty 7 days of hiking. I liked their Pale Ale the best a got a bottle for dinner tonight. Lots of good food and company this evening.
Good long hike this morning, got to the pickup location around 1 pm. It was a fresh farm fruit and veg. place. So what does a 300 mile hiker get at a stand like this??? 12 ears of sweet corn, 1 cantaloupe, 1 watermelon, 1 power aid drink. Gina and Drew arrived, and on the way back Gina stopped at a local beer making company where they give samples of their 7 flavors of beer. Now that is a topper for the hot sweaty 7 days of hiking. I liked their Pale Ale the best a got a bottle for dinner tonight. Lots of good food and company this evening.
July 17th and 18th, Ithaca, NY
July 17 and July 18
Primary chore get my boots repaired or find a new pair to finish the last 250 miles. Learned that the turn around time for repair, if they can be repaired is 5 days. Way to long when I want to start hiking Monday morning. Went to 3 sporting goods places, there was only 1 pair of size 14 hiking boots out of the three, which happened to fit me better than the boots I have been hiking in this past month.
Also decided to take another week before going back to Wisconsin, and add 7 days to my hiking time to see if I can really do the whole trail. There is a part of me that says 300 miles is respectful, so lets be satisfied with 300 miles -- the stubborn side says, hey lets go for at least 500 miles. What I know for sure is, that I am going to start again on Monday and see how it goes.
Primary chore get my boots repaired or find a new pair to finish the last 250 miles. Learned that the turn around time for repair, if they can be repaired is 5 days. Way to long when I want to start hiking Monday morning. Went to 3 sporting goods places, there was only 1 pair of size 14 hiking boots out of the three, which happened to fit me better than the boots I have been hiking in this past month.
Also decided to take another week before going back to Wisconsin, and add 7 days to my hiking time to see if I can really do the whole trail. There is a part of me that says 300 miles is respectful, so lets be satisfied with 300 miles -- the stubborn side says, hey lets go for at least 500 miles. What I know for sure is, that I am going to start again on Monday and see how it goes.
July 19th, a new shelter
July 19 Monday, New Shelter, 31 days out
The first day I have had to hike in the rain. The rain felt very cold after being hot and sweaty most of the day. Felt the best physically so far this trip, even did some walk/jog down hill when the slop was right. Did 16 miles today out of the 250 left for the hike. This evening I have wet boots and socks; my feet were prunes this evening. It was a new shelter, very nice, though the acorns falling on the metal roof jolted me at first. My world out here is usually very quiet, i.e. no loud or sudden noises. Had to hike 150 yds downhill to the spring and back. Very good water, but too far to go a second trip to wash off. Wet-ones to the rescue. Realized today that I have passed a psychological barrier at 300 miles. Somewhat like the runners wall. Anyway I found that I am looking at every mile as one less of the 250 left to go. Also I started thinking about the possibility that I might make the full 550, though at this point I would be happy with 500.
The first day I have had to hike in the rain. The rain felt very cold after being hot and sweaty most of the day. Felt the best physically so far this trip, even did some walk/jog down hill when the slop was right. Did 16 miles today out of the 250 left for the hike. This evening I have wet boots and socks; my feet were prunes this evening. It was a new shelter, very nice, though the acorns falling on the metal roof jolted me at first. My world out here is usually very quiet, i.e. no loud or sudden noises. Had to hike 150 yds downhill to the spring and back. Very good water, but too far to go a second trip to wash off. Wet-ones to the rescue. Realized today that I have passed a psychological barrier at 300 miles. Somewhat like the runners wall. Anyway I found that I am looking at every mile as one less of the 250 left to go. Also I started thinking about the possibility that I might make the full 550, though at this point I would be happy with 500.
July 20th Lean-to
July20,
Slow start today, the rain took something out of me energy wise. The hills are starting to get more steep and longer as I get closer to the Catskills. I get more tired with the long uphill climbs. Two young men out for 3 days buzzed past me on a long up hill. We talked for a while and they went on ahead. Interestingly, I caught up with them at the shelter before they moved on to do a "few more miles". While I was making camp, 2 HS boys came by on their dirt bikes, said they were "chilling out" for a while. They talked and asked questions about hiking and the gear. After they left, 5 college students came in for a night of food, drink, and talk. Their dog was well behaved, as were they. They offered me some beer and chicken, I drank a cup and ate a piece of chicken they had grilled. I don’t think a couple of beers would do me well tomorrow. Was not sure I would get much sleep, but they were quiet, and wished me well as they left in the morning. I am on the downhill slide for this trip. Yea !!
Slow start today, the rain took something out of me energy wise. The hills are starting to get more steep and longer as I get closer to the Catskills. I get more tired with the long uphill climbs. Two young men out for 3 days buzzed past me on a long up hill. We talked for a while and they went on ahead. Interestingly, I caught up with them at the shelter before they moved on to do a "few more miles". While I was making camp, 2 HS boys came by on their dirt bikes, said they were "chilling out" for a while. They talked and asked questions about hiking and the gear. After they left, 5 college students came in for a night of food, drink, and talk. Their dog was well behaved, as were they. They offered me some beer and chicken, I drank a cup and ate a piece of chicken they had grilled. I don’t think a couple of beers would do me well tomorrow. Was not sure I would get much sleep, but they were quiet, and wished me well as they left in the morning. I am on the downhill slide for this trip. Yea !!
July 21st, Bivouac
July 21, camping in the woods
My best mileage to date and my best energy level at the end of the day so far. Thu at the end of the day, I felt too tired to eat, I had to really work at it, food just did not feel good, but I know it is important. The calories I take in tonight are the ones I will burn tomorrow. Yesterdays rain brought out the Knutes -- kept have the lines, "knutes to the left or me, knutes to the right of me, here I am stuck in the middle again" go through my head. For some reason, I thought about White Castle hamburgers several times today. Strange what foods pass through one's mind as they hike. It rained hard twice this afternoon. The first one caught me off guard, i.e. the first rain was short and the sun came out, so I continued down the back country road the trail was on, then it really hit, I was caught unprepared and go soaked i.e. I had to take my boots off, pour the water out, and wring my socks. Later, a second storm rolled in, and I got myself ready, i.e. I got in some pines with have somewhat of and umbrella effect, wrapped myself in my large tarp and covered my boots. I was good to go once the storm past. In the later afternoon, a third storm started rolling in, I was on a back road, got into another stand of pines, made a cover over the tent with the large tarp, got everything ready for the storm, i.e. had everything in the tent or covered with tarp or pack cover. The storm passed just below where I was camped. That was ok, I was wet enough. But I did sleep warm and dry. That is always good.
My best mileage to date and my best energy level at the end of the day so far. Thu at the end of the day, I felt too tired to eat, I had to really work at it, food just did not feel good, but I know it is important. The calories I take in tonight are the ones I will burn tomorrow. Yesterdays rain brought out the Knutes -- kept have the lines, "knutes to the left or me, knutes to the right of me, here I am stuck in the middle again" go through my head. For some reason, I thought about White Castle hamburgers several times today. Strange what foods pass through one's mind as they hike. It rained hard twice this afternoon. The first one caught me off guard, i.e. the first rain was short and the sun came out, so I continued down the back country road the trail was on, then it really hit, I was caught unprepared and go soaked i.e. I had to take my boots off, pour the water out, and wring my socks. Later, a second storm rolled in, and I got myself ready, i.e. I got in some pines with have somewhat of and umbrella effect, wrapped myself in my large tarp and covered my boots. I was good to go once the storm past. In the later afternoon, a third storm started rolling in, I was on a back road, got into another stand of pines, made a cover over the tent with the large tarp, got everything ready for the storm, i.e. had everything in the tent or covered with tarp or pack cover. The storm passed just below where I was camped. That was ok, I was wet enough. But I did sleep warm and dry. That is always good.
July 22nd, Marathon, NY
July 22
I was ok with the rain not hitting me last night; so far the rain has not been bad for hiking. Though that means the humidity is often high and I sweat more. This morning the FLT did a long road walk, as I was going up the road, 5 dogs came out to check me out. Then the owner came out and we chatted for a while. She does dog rescue, has a therapy dog, and has sheep plus 2 herding dogs who she uses to teach people about herding etc. Later on the road, my eye caught a round object, and it turned out to be a very corroded quarter. My second one of the trip. How I saw it I am not sure, something in my brain had to have picked up that the shape did not fit the pattern of the stones in the road. So far 58 cents found while walking. I had hoped to get to Fox Fire lean-to last night. When I got there, there were 3 people there and 2 dogs. I found out today that it took an additional 3 hours to get from my campsite to the shelter, but I was just as happy to sleep alone in my tent, verses at a shelter with people, Jack Daniels, beer, and town food. The dogs were well behaved. The lady knew of Claryville, she use to work at the YMCA center nearby. They offered me a beer, so they would not have to carry the left overs out, but I declined on the same grounds as before. Once on the AT hike, I had a beer that was trail magic along the trail. I went into low gear for the rest of the afternoon. The trail down Greek Peak was steep and covered with waist and shoulder high raspberry bushes. I do not think it has ever been cut back. It was a slow walk down the hill to the Gathering Restaurant. When I got to the Gathering Restaurant, where I had sent my food box and hoped to rent a room or cabin, I learned that they were all booked due to a wedding that was going to happen on Sat. The bartender, overhearing my problem, told me there was a motel in Marathon that was only a short ways away (turned out to be 6 miles). The shelter was 1 1/2 miles away and I would have had to carry my food box. Anything I did not feel like doing at that point in time was to hike 1 ½ miles to the shelter with a box of food under my arm. The bartender, John, gave me the yellow pages and said if I could get a room at the 3 Bears, he would drive me into town. I got the room and he drove me into town. How is that for trail magic at its best? I called the Three Bear Inn and they had a room, the bartender offered to drive me to Marathon when I had a break. He did. Trail magic at its best, I keep marveling at how things have come together for me when I need it. The town has a laundry, pizza place, 2 restaurants and a grocery store. So what did I get? 2 heads of lettuce and dressing, a pint of Cole slaw, a large slice of pizza, and a large beer. Now that is living large !!! Grateful ___Someone losing a tube of beeswax lip balm on the backcountry road for me to use as water repellent on my boots.Bottled water, carbonated, at the shelter for me to add my Gatorade toA creek or spring with a deep enough spot to dip my green cup into or sit my filter hose intoA storm that misses mePeople who help hikersA flat enough and big enough spot to pitch my tent onNo rain in the morning or evening while breaking or setting up campPeople who volunteer to maintain the trailEnough M & M's in the trail mix for lunchShade over the road while walking, the FLT road part of the trailPeople at home who give me water when I have run out A Laundromat after 5 day stretch of hikingGetting the last available room at a motel after 5 days of hikingBeing in a motel while it is storming outside
I was ok with the rain not hitting me last night; so far the rain has not been bad for hiking. Though that means the humidity is often high and I sweat more. This morning the FLT did a long road walk, as I was going up the road, 5 dogs came out to check me out. Then the owner came out and we chatted for a while. She does dog rescue, has a therapy dog, and has sheep plus 2 herding dogs who she uses to teach people about herding etc. Later on the road, my eye caught a round object, and it turned out to be a very corroded quarter. My second one of the trip. How I saw it I am not sure, something in my brain had to have picked up that the shape did not fit the pattern of the stones in the road. So far 58 cents found while walking. I had hoped to get to Fox Fire lean-to last night. When I got there, there were 3 people there and 2 dogs. I found out today that it took an additional 3 hours to get from my campsite to the shelter, but I was just as happy to sleep alone in my tent, verses at a shelter with people, Jack Daniels, beer, and town food. The dogs were well behaved. The lady knew of Claryville, she use to work at the YMCA center nearby. They offered me a beer, so they would not have to carry the left overs out, but I declined on the same grounds as before. Once on the AT hike, I had a beer that was trail magic along the trail. I went into low gear for the rest of the afternoon. The trail down Greek Peak was steep and covered with waist and shoulder high raspberry bushes. I do not think it has ever been cut back. It was a slow walk down the hill to the Gathering Restaurant. When I got to the Gathering Restaurant, where I had sent my food box and hoped to rent a room or cabin, I learned that they were all booked due to a wedding that was going to happen on Sat. The bartender, overhearing my problem, told me there was a motel in Marathon that was only a short ways away (turned out to be 6 miles). The shelter was 1 1/2 miles away and I would have had to carry my food box. Anything I did not feel like doing at that point in time was to hike 1 ½ miles to the shelter with a box of food under my arm. The bartender, John, gave me the yellow pages and said if I could get a room at the 3 Bears, he would drive me into town. I got the room and he drove me into town. How is that for trail magic at its best? I called the Three Bear Inn and they had a room, the bartender offered to drive me to Marathon when I had a break. He did. Trail magic at its best, I keep marveling at how things have come together for me when I need it. The town has a laundry, pizza place, 2 restaurants and a grocery store. So what did I get? 2 heads of lettuce and dressing, a pint of Cole slaw, a large slice of pizza, and a large beer. Now that is living large !!! Grateful ___Someone losing a tube of beeswax lip balm on the backcountry road for me to use as water repellent on my boots.Bottled water, carbonated, at the shelter for me to add my Gatorade toA creek or spring with a deep enough spot to dip my green cup into or sit my filter hose intoA storm that misses mePeople who help hikersA flat enough and big enough spot to pitch my tent onNo rain in the morning or evening while breaking or setting up campPeople who volunteer to maintain the trailEnough M & M's in the trail mix for lunchShade over the road while walking, the FLT road part of the trailPeople at home who give me water when I have run out A Laundromat after 5 day stretch of hikingGetting the last available room at a motel after 5 days of hikingBeing in a motel while it is storming outside
July 23rd, Marathon, NY
.July 23, Marathon, 35 days out, 5 weeks
Ate breakfast in Pat and Mary’s Cafe. It turned out to be the local place for "the guys" to have breakfast. Most of them were 2-3 generation locals. They talked about the crazy places people are building house now. The spring that one man's father had used when he was a kid and is now used for a water spot for cows on someone's property. Learned that Mary had a bad shoulder that the local chiropractor had helped. Learned that Jeff had died yesterday and he was a good man who was always kind to people. Learned that the lady behind me was an author attempting to put together a book about her childhood. Later two men who work at the cemetery came in and said they had a burial this afternoon, but it was not that much work because the person had been cremated. This little place reminded me of Wis. little towns. My friend Rich, could have sat down and talked with them. The difference was the names -- the places, memories, and topics would be just like home. The ladies at the grocery store helped me make a hitch hiking sign by providing a cardboard box end and a magic marker to use tomorrow. The lady's allowed that her son would really like to do a hike like I was doing. He had just left the Army after 3 deployments to Iraq and one to Afghanistan as a scout. He is going to start school this fall.
Today is a good day to take a 0 day, it has been raining all day.
How do you know it is humid outside? When your glasses steam up seconds after walking out of the store.
Ate breakfast in Pat and Mary’s Cafe. It turned out to be the local place for "the guys" to have breakfast. Most of them were 2-3 generation locals. They talked about the crazy places people are building house now. The spring that one man's father had used when he was a kid and is now used for a water spot for cows on someone's property. Learned that Mary had a bad shoulder that the local chiropractor had helped. Learned that Jeff had died yesterday and he was a good man who was always kind to people. Learned that the lady behind me was an author attempting to put together a book about her childhood. Later two men who work at the cemetery came in and said they had a burial this afternoon, but it was not that much work because the person had been cremated. This little place reminded me of Wis. little towns. My friend Rich, could have sat down and talked with them. The difference was the names -- the places, memories, and topics would be just like home. The ladies at the grocery store helped me make a hitch hiking sign by providing a cardboard box end and a magic marker to use tomorrow. The lady's allowed that her son would really like to do a hike like I was doing. He had just left the Army after 3 deployments to Iraq and one to Afghanistan as a scout. He is going to start school this fall.
Today is a good day to take a 0 day, it has been raining all day.
How do you know it is humid outside? When your glasses steam up seconds after walking out of the store.
July 24th, Marathon, NY
July 24, Marathon NY, 36 days out
My hitch hiking sign got me a ride to the trailhead in less than 10 min.'s saving me a 6 mile walk back to the trail with a full pack of water and food. I have never weighed my pack on the first day out, my doctor said to keep it to 30 pounds, sorry doc., I think it is more like 40 plus fully loaded. I have gone through every item and made sure I really believe I need it -- and I do because from my point of view what I have provides safety – there are just in case items. Because I have seen so few people, I must figure out what I might need, because I wont have help from passing hikers.
The forecast was for rain around 1 pm, the skies were clear all day. I saw a really good bivouac spot on top of Mt. Tiago late this afternoon, but I did not have enough water. I need at least 2 liters, one for the night and one for the morning. If I do not have any water in my two-liter container, then I am leaving camp dry, which I do not like. It means that some were in the early hours of the hike; I will have to unpack the filter and spend 30 min.'s filtering water -- that is lost prime hiking time when it is coolest. Sometimes that is the way it works out. I like to break camp with the 2-liter full and a third liter as backup stuffed in the side pocket of the backpack. The Mt. top is the best place to setup camp if it is not raining, there is usually a breeze to dry the clothes and discourage the bugs. I set up camp by a stream and filtered 4 liters of water. The streams as they are called in the FLT guide part of the map are really little creeks with allot of sediment. I always look for a place where the water is running fast enough to clear out the sediment from a spot. That way there is less fine silt on the filter cartridge. I set everything in camp allowing for the possibility of rain. Later it did start raining. I heard allot of thunder and could see lightening south of me (one keeps themselves directionally oriented all the time after the first week). The storms seem to come in two forms Cells and soaker's. The cell's can be quite local allowing me to see rain over on the side of the Mt. to the east while I am standing in the sunlight.
My hitch hiking sign got me a ride to the trailhead in less than 10 min.'s saving me a 6 mile walk back to the trail with a full pack of water and food. I have never weighed my pack on the first day out, my doctor said to keep it to 30 pounds, sorry doc., I think it is more like 40 plus fully loaded. I have gone through every item and made sure I really believe I need it -- and I do because from my point of view what I have provides safety – there are just in case items. Because I have seen so few people, I must figure out what I might need, because I wont have help from passing hikers.
The forecast was for rain around 1 pm, the skies were clear all day. I saw a really good bivouac spot on top of Mt. Tiago late this afternoon, but I did not have enough water. I need at least 2 liters, one for the night and one for the morning. If I do not have any water in my two-liter container, then I am leaving camp dry, which I do not like. It means that some were in the early hours of the hike; I will have to unpack the filter and spend 30 min.'s filtering water -- that is lost prime hiking time when it is coolest. Sometimes that is the way it works out. I like to break camp with the 2-liter full and a third liter as backup stuffed in the side pocket of the backpack. The Mt. top is the best place to setup camp if it is not raining, there is usually a breeze to dry the clothes and discourage the bugs. I set up camp by a stream and filtered 4 liters of water. The streams as they are called in the FLT guide part of the map are really little creeks with allot of sediment. I always look for a place where the water is running fast enough to clear out the sediment from a spot. That way there is less fine silt on the filter cartridge. I set everything in camp allowing for the possibility of rain. Later it did start raining. I heard allot of thunder and could see lightening south of me (one keeps themselves directionally oriented all the time after the first week). The storms seem to come in two forms Cells and soaker's. The cell's can be quite local allowing me to see rain over on the side of the Mt. to the east while I am standing in the sunlight.
July 25th, Bivouac
July 25, Bivouac in a pine cove
Felt good physically and did good mileage today. Had difficulty finding water today, not many houses, and lots of dogs at the houses I pasted. Finally heard water running in the grass ditch beside the road I was walking. I used my walking sticks to part the grass and weeds, and there was a little spring coming out of the side of the ditch. Filtered out 3 liters, good cool water, I wonder if anyone knows it is here. Earlier this afternoon, I attempted to tighten my left shoelace and an eyelet broke. I have bypassed it on the lacing. I have had the boots a week. I will see how the lacing works (it made my left boot heal wear twice as deep as the right boot), but I really do not have much choice now. I could cut the eyelet out, but I think the leather is probably too weak to last very long in place of the eyelet.
I found a nice pine cove to set up camp inside. There is a little creek about 25 yards down and behind me. I can see cars going by on the road, but I am reasonably sure they do not see me. People usually to not look deeply into the woods as they drive down the road. However, I have the thought,” I am dressed in all black, so I hope no one sees me and thinks I am a bear”
Felt good physically and did good mileage today. Had difficulty finding water today, not many houses, and lots of dogs at the houses I pasted. Finally heard water running in the grass ditch beside the road I was walking. I used my walking sticks to part the grass and weeds, and there was a little spring coming out of the side of the ditch. Filtered out 3 liters, good cool water, I wonder if anyone knows it is here. Earlier this afternoon, I attempted to tighten my left shoelace and an eyelet broke. I have bypassed it on the lacing. I have had the boots a week. I will see how the lacing works (it made my left boot heal wear twice as deep as the right boot), but I really do not have much choice now. I could cut the eyelet out, but I think the leather is probably too weak to last very long in place of the eyelet.
I found a nice pine cove to set up camp inside. There is a little creek about 25 yards down and behind me. I can see cars going by on the road, but I am reasonably sure they do not see me. People usually to not look deeply into the woods as they drive down the road. However, I have the thought,” I am dressed in all black, so I hope no one sees me and thinks I am a bear”
July 26th, Bivouac
July 26, Biouac, In a Pine woods
While eating breakfast, sitting on a fallen tree, I saw the outline of a knife. When I picked it up and cleaned it off, I discovered a very well made 8 in. hunting knife in a deteriorated sheath. It had clearly been there a long time, and I assume lost by someone who was hunting. I found myself in a dilemma, leave it there, carry the weight and figure out how to get it to Wis., leave it on someone's doorstep, or find a home for it. I decided to take it with me and look for a suitable home. I tucked it into the side pocket of my pack and started the day's hike. The FLT was allot of road walk, according to the guide, the landowner on this section had withdrawn permission for the trail to go over his land. I reached a county road that went into the little town of Oselic where there was a store. I decided to hitch hike to it and then angle over to the trail. The hitch hiking did not go well, so I started walking the 5 miles to town. I paused at a road intersection and started hitch hiking again, and was quickly picked up by a woman, her 19 y/o son and a 12 y/o neighbor boy. They said they were going right past the trail connection, but had to be somewhere first, so I could ride along. It turned out that they were going to Norwich to get ready for the county fair scheduled for next week. The lady dropped off the boys, took me to an Arby's, and then drove me to the trailhead. I asked the lady if her son was a hunter and she said all the men in the extended family were hunters. I told her the story of the knife find, asked it her son would use it, and she said yes. Yea, I found a home for a high quality knife, got an Arby's very large sandwich, and got taken to the trailhead. Interestingly, when she asked what kind of food I wanted while we were in town, I went blank, just too many choices. Finally, roast beef, hit my food cravings. I keep saying we as a culture, have far too many choices about the same type of item.
I was dropped off where the guide said there was a bivouac spot. I could not find it. It is usually the case that the bivouac area noted on the map has no sign at the location indicating the general area to set up a camp sight (and often there is no water at the bivouac sight, which means one has to plan ahead and carry enough water for the evening and the morning meals).
The crazy line going through my head again: knutes to the right of me, knutes to the left of me, here I am stuck in the middle again.
While eating breakfast, sitting on a fallen tree, I saw the outline of a knife. When I picked it up and cleaned it off, I discovered a very well made 8 in. hunting knife in a deteriorated sheath. It had clearly been there a long time, and I assume lost by someone who was hunting. I found myself in a dilemma, leave it there, carry the weight and figure out how to get it to Wis., leave it on someone's doorstep, or find a home for it. I decided to take it with me and look for a suitable home. I tucked it into the side pocket of my pack and started the day's hike. The FLT was allot of road walk, according to the guide, the landowner on this section had withdrawn permission for the trail to go over his land. I reached a county road that went into the little town of Oselic where there was a store. I decided to hitch hike to it and then angle over to the trail. The hitch hiking did not go well, so I started walking the 5 miles to town. I paused at a road intersection and started hitch hiking again, and was quickly picked up by a woman, her 19 y/o son and a 12 y/o neighbor boy. They said they were going right past the trail connection, but had to be somewhere first, so I could ride along. It turned out that they were going to Norwich to get ready for the county fair scheduled for next week. The lady dropped off the boys, took me to an Arby's, and then drove me to the trailhead. I asked the lady if her son was a hunter and she said all the men in the extended family were hunters. I told her the story of the knife find, asked it her son would use it, and she said yes. Yea, I found a home for a high quality knife, got an Arby's very large sandwich, and got taken to the trailhead. Interestingly, when she asked what kind of food I wanted while we were in town, I went blank, just too many choices. Finally, roast beef, hit my food cravings. I keep saying we as a culture, have far too many choices about the same type of item.
I was dropped off where the guide said there was a bivouac spot. I could not find it. It is usually the case that the bivouac area noted on the map has no sign at the location indicating the general area to set up a camp sight (and often there is no water at the bivouac sight, which means one has to plan ahead and carry enough water for the evening and the morning meals).
The crazy line going through my head again: knutes to the right of me, knutes to the left of me, here I am stuck in the middle again.
July 27th, Balsam Inn, East Pharsadia, NY
July 27 The Balsam Inn, East Pharsadia
(read -- any neighborhood bar in Wis., or the Doyle Hotel on the AT)
On the hike into town, a car pulled up beside me and the man asked me about my hike. I told him about the FLT and how far I had hiked and my plan to do the rest of the trail. He told me he was a Jehovah Witness making visits to various homes. He also told me he does long distance biking, so he could appreciate the mental aspects of doing a long distant hike.
The Balsam Inn, I had already heard from my ride yesterday is an institution unto itself. It is a bar, restaurant, inn, gathering place for bikers and snowmobiles, and parties. It had a very old bar, a couple of pool tables, a very large rebel flag on the wall, a place to set up a band, and a lounge area in front of a fireplace. The stairs leading up to the bedrooms was as steep as some of the paths on the FLT, but more narrow. The floor upstairs in the bedroom had a slant one way while the bed slanted to counter the floor, HEY who cares; there was a bathroom, shower, and a washer and drier. Plus the lady at the bar kept giving pitchers of ice water. This is the second place that did not take a credit card. The $50 cash cost, left me with $15 cash of my own. I called Gina, and asked her to send cash to me at my next stop in Bainbridge. There was also a very playful black Lab who wanted me to throw a ball for him to retrieve. I continued to be in a Verizon dead zone, so I had to use the bars phone to make an outside call. Payphones no long exist, at least in my travels so far. When I asked if the food box I had mailed out of Ithaca 2 weeks ago had arrive, no one on the day shift knew about the box. nor Later in the afternoon, the Balsam Inn's owner arrived and she said that she did not have my food box. I started contemplating creative ways to get enough food to hike to Bainbridge. After a few minutes, the owner asked one of the women at the bar, it was $1.50 beer night, if there was a box for me at the post office across the street (I could not tell that it was the post office), she said she would go and look. She came out of the PO with my food box; I gave a sigh of relief, had a beer, and went to my room to begin repacking my meals.
Besides being, beer night, it was also biker's night, which meant that around 7pm, there would be a cook out with food for everyone who was at the outside bar. I appreciated the hot dog, snapper (a brat with jalapenos), and beans. When I went back into the bar, the afternoon and evening clientele started asking me some things about what I was doing. Once they understood, I found myself being asked more specific questions about the hike. A man offered to buy me a meal (I took a beer, I was already full), and talked about some of the trips they had taken. Later before I went upstairs to bed, and older lady, who had been there throughout the afternoon, started talking to me. She said that she use to own the Balsam, that she had many fond memories of the place, and found herself feeling very attached to the Inn. She said it was still like home to her. Later, I made up another hitchhike sign for in the morning.
While hiking into town this morning, I saw a medium sized black bear, (dead) on the back of a sheriff's SUV. That is the closest I have come to a bear so far on this hike.
I felt out of place at the bar, in part because I was and outsider, it was clearly the local crowd. I am familiar with the dynamics of a local group; I grew up in one back in Indiana. I, along with Billy Joel, recognized both the pleasant and not so pleasant aspects of such a group/individual dynamic.
(read -- any neighborhood bar in Wis., or the Doyle Hotel on the AT)
On the hike into town, a car pulled up beside me and the man asked me about my hike. I told him about the FLT and how far I had hiked and my plan to do the rest of the trail. He told me he was a Jehovah Witness making visits to various homes. He also told me he does long distance biking, so he could appreciate the mental aspects of doing a long distant hike.
The Balsam Inn, I had already heard from my ride yesterday is an institution unto itself. It is a bar, restaurant, inn, gathering place for bikers and snowmobiles, and parties. It had a very old bar, a couple of pool tables, a very large rebel flag on the wall, a place to set up a band, and a lounge area in front of a fireplace. The stairs leading up to the bedrooms was as steep as some of the paths on the FLT, but more narrow. The floor upstairs in the bedroom had a slant one way while the bed slanted to counter the floor, HEY who cares; there was a bathroom, shower, and a washer and drier. Plus the lady at the bar kept giving pitchers of ice water. This is the second place that did not take a credit card. The $50 cash cost, left me with $15 cash of my own. I called Gina, and asked her to send cash to me at my next stop in Bainbridge. There was also a very playful black Lab who wanted me to throw a ball for him to retrieve. I continued to be in a Verizon dead zone, so I had to use the bars phone to make an outside call. Payphones no long exist, at least in my travels so far. When I asked if the food box I had mailed out of Ithaca 2 weeks ago had arrive, no one on the day shift knew about the box. nor Later in the afternoon, the Balsam Inn's owner arrived and she said that she did not have my food box. I started contemplating creative ways to get enough food to hike to Bainbridge. After a few minutes, the owner asked one of the women at the bar, it was $1.50 beer night, if there was a box for me at the post office across the street (I could not tell that it was the post office), she said she would go and look. She came out of the PO with my food box; I gave a sigh of relief, had a beer, and went to my room to begin repacking my meals.
Besides being, beer night, it was also biker's night, which meant that around 7pm, there would be a cook out with food for everyone who was at the outside bar. I appreciated the hot dog, snapper (a brat with jalapenos), and beans. When I went back into the bar, the afternoon and evening clientele started asking me some things about what I was doing. Once they understood, I found myself being asked more specific questions about the hike. A man offered to buy me a meal (I took a beer, I was already full), and talked about some of the trips they had taken. Later before I went upstairs to bed, and older lady, who had been there throughout the afternoon, started talking to me. She said that she use to own the Balsam, that she had many fond memories of the place, and found herself feeling very attached to the Inn. She said it was still like home to her. Later, I made up another hitchhike sign for in the morning.
While hiking into town this morning, I saw a medium sized black bear, (dead) on the back of a sheriff's SUV. That is the closest I have come to a bear so far on this hike.
I felt out of place at the bar, in part because I was and outsider, it was clearly the local crowd. I am familiar with the dynamics of a local group; I grew up in one back in Indiana. I, along with Billy Joel, recognized both the pleasant and not so pleasant aspects of such a group/individual dynamic.
July 28th, Ludlow Lean-To
July 28 Wed, Ludlow Lean-To 40 days out
During my hike today, I made a wrong interpretation of the guide map and ended up going in a circle for a while. I did get to Bowman St. Park ok. I sat at a deserted swimming area and had my 12-noon break. While sitting there, I saw a mature Bald Eagle flying/circling around the lake. The timing was right to see the eagle, so my misreading actually turned out to be ok. There is a lesson embedded in this experience. I got to the shelter at 3:30 pm this afternoon. I usually want to hike to 5 0r 6 pm. The shelter had a fire pit with some smoldering ashes and several pools of water in the ravine. The pools had been made by people placing piles of rocks across the stream to back up the water. The sky was clear, the weather mild, good hiking conditions. I knew I could make another 2-3 miles and still have time to set up camp. The fireplace had a wooden double chair in front of it. The shelter was reasonably clean. I decided to stay, reminding myself that I did not have to rush my hike and to rest my body often. I filtered my water and washed up in the pool. I am getting into the habit of washing up in the creeks and streams whenever there is one nearby my camp. I find that always being alone during the hike and at my camp be it shelter or campsite, I walk around with fewer clothes on than I normally would be doing. I made a fire in the fireplace and dried all my clothes. I do prefer dry clothes in the morning, though more often than not, the clothes are at least damp and cool or wet and cold. The trick to drying clothes by a campfire I learned while working for SPRITE in Oregon, Wis. in the early 80's (it was a 4 season outdoor program for adjudicated youth). I continue to be in a Verizon Dead Zone i.e. no verizon service. Ate dinner at 7:00 pm my preferred time to avoid being hungry during the night. I heard a tree fall in the woods this evening -- yes there is sound in the forest when a tree falls !!
During my hike today, I made a wrong interpretation of the guide map and ended up going in a circle for a while. I did get to Bowman St. Park ok. I sat at a deserted swimming area and had my 12-noon break. While sitting there, I saw a mature Bald Eagle flying/circling around the lake. The timing was right to see the eagle, so my misreading actually turned out to be ok. There is a lesson embedded in this experience. I got to the shelter at 3:30 pm this afternoon. I usually want to hike to 5 0r 6 pm. The shelter had a fire pit with some smoldering ashes and several pools of water in the ravine. The pools had been made by people placing piles of rocks across the stream to back up the water. The sky was clear, the weather mild, good hiking conditions. I knew I could make another 2-3 miles and still have time to set up camp. The fireplace had a wooden double chair in front of it. The shelter was reasonably clean. I decided to stay, reminding myself that I did not have to rush my hike and to rest my body often. I filtered my water and washed up in the pool. I am getting into the habit of washing up in the creeks and streams whenever there is one nearby my camp. I find that always being alone during the hike and at my camp be it shelter or campsite, I walk around with fewer clothes on than I normally would be doing. I made a fire in the fireplace and dried all my clothes. I do prefer dry clothes in the morning, though more often than not, the clothes are at least damp and cool or wet and cold. The trick to drying clothes by a campfire I learned while working for SPRITE in Oregon, Wis. in the early 80's (it was a 4 season outdoor program for adjudicated youth). I continue to be in a Verizon Dead Zone i.e. no verizon service. Ate dinner at 7:00 pm my preferred time to avoid being hungry during the night. I heard a tree fall in the woods this evening -- yes there is sound in the forest when a tree falls !!
July 29th, Willie Pond
July 29th, Willie Pond Bivouac
Lesson: Yesterday I made two decisions, which cost me 1 1/2 hours of time, resulting in me getting to the shelter in mid afternoon. I decided to stay at the shelter. It stormed last night, and I was warm and dry in the shelter with dry gear and clothes this morning. I gave myself a hard time for not being more accurate or careful ---- YET it turned out rather well for me. While the saying is hindsight is 20/20, hindsight can show you that what you thought was a mistake etc, really lead to a good outcome later. SO STOP GIVING YOURSELF SUCH A HARD TIME FISHER !!!!!!
I hiked 18 miles today. My best mileage. Met a man taking his second daily walk. He had a side arm, which I asked him about. (a .38 special). He said that coyotes had attacked a couple of people the past year. And, that a neighbor who rides her horse in the woods started carrying a pistol after seeing a large black mountain lion. Coming down the smooth, soft, pine needle covered path to the bivouac area, I was paying attention to the blue blazes and did not notice the branches across the path. My feet got tangled in them and I took a fall with a face plant into the ground. I twisted enough for my left hip to fall on my loaded pack (later I found a slight dent in my cook pot), but the pine kneels on the ground gave my face a rash. The guide on the map said that water could be taken from the pond. When I went over to the pond it was clearly 2-3 feet lower than normal, algae covered, and allot of tannic acid. Fortunately, I had two liters for evening and morning, but that meant I would be leaving camp dry in the morning. A couple with a very young child and 3 dogs came down to the pond so that the dogs could retrieve tennis balls when thrown out into the pond. The man said that he needed to fix the spillway boards that had been torn away by "something" probably a beaver. He said there was no other source of water for me.
Lesson: Yesterday I made two decisions, which cost me 1 1/2 hours of time, resulting in me getting to the shelter in mid afternoon. I decided to stay at the shelter. It stormed last night, and I was warm and dry in the shelter with dry gear and clothes this morning. I gave myself a hard time for not being more accurate or careful ---- YET it turned out rather well for me. While the saying is hindsight is 20/20, hindsight can show you that what you thought was a mistake etc, really lead to a good outcome later. SO STOP GIVING YOURSELF SUCH A HARD TIME FISHER !!!!!!
I hiked 18 miles today. My best mileage. Met a man taking his second daily walk. He had a side arm, which I asked him about. (a .38 special). He said that coyotes had attacked a couple of people the past year. And, that a neighbor who rides her horse in the woods started carrying a pistol after seeing a large black mountain lion. Coming down the smooth, soft, pine needle covered path to the bivouac area, I was paying attention to the blue blazes and did not notice the branches across the path. My feet got tangled in them and I took a fall with a face plant into the ground. I twisted enough for my left hip to fall on my loaded pack (later I found a slight dent in my cook pot), but the pine kneels on the ground gave my face a rash. The guide on the map said that water could be taken from the pond. When I went over to the pond it was clearly 2-3 feet lower than normal, algae covered, and allot of tannic acid. Fortunately, I had two liters for evening and morning, but that meant I would be leaving camp dry in the morning. A couple with a very young child and 3 dogs came down to the pond so that the dogs could retrieve tennis balls when thrown out into the pond. The man said that he needed to fix the spillway boards that had been torn away by "something" probably a beaver. He said there was no other source of water for me.
July 30th, Susquehanna Motel, Bainbridge, NY
July 30 Susquehanna Motel, Bainbridge, NY
The FLT had allotted of road walk on the map today. I stopped at a house where a man was outside building a doghouse and he filled up my work bottles. I am getting faster on my road walks, have done 4 miles an hour on the flats, on the grades from 2-3 miles an hour. I noticed that my "trail appetite" has returned i.e. that is when you begin to have the urge to eat any foodstuff and plenty of it. I did have a Chinese meal this afternoon. Found that I could only eat half of it at one setting. It became dinner as well. I went over the maps and my food needs. I was a day earlier than I had planned and my food box has more than I think I will need to get to Walton. I decided to make a food box by using the left overs and go to the store and get the additional food I will need when I get to Little Pond Campground. I made up a box and mailed it out this afternoon. I found 23 cents while walking on the road today.
The FLT had allotted of road walk on the map today. I stopped at a house where a man was outside building a doghouse and he filled up my work bottles. I am getting faster on my road walks, have done 4 miles an hour on the flats, on the grades from 2-3 miles an hour. I noticed that my "trail appetite" has returned i.e. that is when you begin to have the urge to eat any foodstuff and plenty of it. I did have a Chinese meal this afternoon. Found that I could only eat half of it at one setting. It became dinner as well. I went over the maps and my food needs. I was a day earlier than I had planned and my food box has more than I think I will need to get to Walton. I decided to make a food box by using the left overs and go to the store and get the additional food I will need when I get to Little Pond Campground. I made up a box and mailed it out this afternoon. I found 23 cents while walking on the road today.
July 31st, Bainbridge, NY
July 31 Motel
I called ahead to the Walton Motel and reserved a room. Then while listening to the news, realized that July has 31 days rather than the 30 I was using on my paper plan. I had to call Walton Motel and arrange for a different day -- fortunately it worked out. (the motel was full when I got there a few days later). There was a Donkin Donuts across the street from the Motel. They had a breakfast of coffee and donuts that came close to $5. The local cafe had a breakfast of 3-egg cheese omelet, toast & jelly, chocolate milk for $5. I went local. Saw a sign that Bainbridge was the home of Elmer's Glue. The owner of the Motel told me that one time there were 3 grocery stores, several more restaurants, and numerous other businesses before the company shipped out to China and Canada. A 0-day, it is difficult to not feel strongly that I am wasting a day of hiking. While it is true that there was a very heavy fog this morning, it has burnt off and the sky is clear. The fog means that all grass and weeds will be very wet through mid-afternoon, which in turn means wet boots, soaks, and shorts. But my "experience" tells me it is better to rest up a day. It looks like there is a good chance that I will make the whole distance. I am getting the feeling that I am coming down the home stretch. The library was closed today, though it was suppose to be open for 4 hours. I went to 2 businesses and asked if they knew of somewhere I could get on the internet. They all said no. I decided to go to the little city hall beside the active RR track and ask if they knew of some place. The lady let me use the extra computer at the desk beside hers to catch up on my email.
I called ahead to the Walton Motel and reserved a room. Then while listening to the news, realized that July has 31 days rather than the 30 I was using on my paper plan. I had to call Walton Motel and arrange for a different day -- fortunately it worked out. (the motel was full when I got there a few days later). There was a Donkin Donuts across the street from the Motel. They had a breakfast of coffee and donuts that came close to $5. The local cafe had a breakfast of 3-egg cheese omelet, toast & jelly, chocolate milk for $5. I went local. Saw a sign that Bainbridge was the home of Elmer's Glue. The owner of the Motel told me that one time there were 3 grocery stores, several more restaurants, and numerous other businesses before the company shipped out to China and Canada. A 0-day, it is difficult to not feel strongly that I am wasting a day of hiking. While it is true that there was a very heavy fog this morning, it has burnt off and the sky is clear. The fog means that all grass and weeds will be very wet through mid-afternoon, which in turn means wet boots, soaks, and shorts. But my "experience" tells me it is better to rest up a day. It looks like there is a good chance that I will make the whole distance. I am getting the feeling that I am coming down the home stretch. The library was closed today, though it was suppose to be open for 4 hours. I went to 2 businesses and asked if they knew of somewhere I could get on the internet. They all said no. I decided to go to the little city hall beside the active RR track and ask if they knew of some place. The lady let me use the extra computer at the desk beside hers to catch up on my email.
Aug 1st, Cold Spring Lean-To
Aug 1, Cold Spring Lean To (the map guide said, no water within .6 of a mile) - (not so there was a little spring .1 of a mile)
Had knats fly into both eyes today. Also got a milkshake at a little, but very busy, roadside stand. It was not the best $4.65 milkshake that I have ever had, but on a hot day and after allot of miles who is to complain?
There was thunder and lightening in the area this evening and some sprinkles but no rainstorm. I built a drying fire and also warmed myself up. There are times when the temperature drops making a sharp contrast between the hot sweaty hike and the cooler evening in the shade of a shelter that makes me feel chilled deep inside.
Had knats fly into both eyes today. Also got a milkshake at a little, but very busy, roadside stand. It was not the best $4.65 milkshake that I have ever had, but on a hot day and after allot of miles who is to complain?
There was thunder and lightening in the area this evening and some sprinkles but no rainstorm. I built a drying fire and also warmed myself up. There are times when the temperature drops making a sharp contrast between the hot sweaty hike and the cooler evening in the shade of a shelter that makes me feel chilled deep inside.
Aug 2nd, Bivouac, east of Walton, NY
Aug 2 bivouac,
The hills today were very steep both up and down. I found myself thinking about how I would set up and write my journal-blog when I get back to Wis. I came up with a title:
The Old Man and the Trail A Solitary Journey of Renewal
It occurred to me today, that for days and hours on end the only sounds I have heard are the wind, the birds, and my feet and poles striking the ground, with an occasional airplane frying overhead. I am figuring that I can complete the hike over the next 8 days. After coming down a very very long and steep hill, I started looking for a place to camp. What I found was an area that was restricted on one side of the road and limited to certain activities on the other side of the road. I went up the road and knocked on the doors of 3 houses to ask if there were any clearly signed public land nearby. No one answered the doors, so I hiked back down the road and started walking back into the less restricted area. There was a large creek about 100 yards back in the brush and weeds and on the other side of the creek; there was a high bluff. I saw a deer trail going through the weeds and then could see their trail going up the bluff. I found a rock crossing of the creek and followed the deer trail up a very steep embankment. At the top was a perfect location for a bivouac where I set up camp. When I explored the area, I found an old farm trail and an old farm dump with an old rusted car body and an old farm plow. The side of the embankment had clearly been a farm dump of trash at one time. I have seen places like this in Wis. while hunting. Lots of old bottles, pans, kitchen and house hold items thrown over the side of a hill. There was a nice breeze going through the trees and my clothes dried fairly fast. I fell asleep with the sounds of cars on the road, jet liners overhead, and the stream at the bottom of the bluff. Aug 3 Walton, NY, Walton Motel (Dorrie, the owner) The map today showed FLT as nothing but road walk. It was a hot walk with some long steep hills. The last 5 miles were mostly down hill. I did 12 miles in 5 hours. I ran out of water about 4 miles from town. I attempted to hitchhike into town but could not get a ride. I was really dehydrated when I came to the edge of town, where lo-and-behold, there was a Subway. Ice water plus a Tuna Sub (I could only eat half of it). My food box had arrived at the motel. I took it to my room, got cleaned up, and then Dorrie drove me into town so that I could do some email work at the library. Again worked on the maps and distances as well as made decisions about food i.e. should I go to the grocery store and get more "just in case" food. (I deiced that I had enough food). I have been in a number of Verizon dead zones. ( I later learned that the dead zones included other service providers than Verizon) I began to recognize a growing fear. When I was planning the hike, I had the AT experience to draw upon. There on the AT, one was rarely alone on the trail or at the shelters. Here I am always alone, which means that if something were to happen to me, it was very unlikely that someone would come along to help me. Thus, my backup safety plan was my cell phone. In the western part of NY, I got Verizon service connections all the time, but here on the eastern side of the Finger Lakes Trail there are deep valleys, few towns, and apparently few telephone towers.
The hills today were very steep both up and down. I found myself thinking about how I would set up and write my journal-blog when I get back to Wis. I came up with a title:
The Old Man and the Trail A Solitary Journey of Renewal
It occurred to me today, that for days and hours on end the only sounds I have heard are the wind, the birds, and my feet and poles striking the ground, with an occasional airplane frying overhead. I am figuring that I can complete the hike over the next 8 days. After coming down a very very long and steep hill, I started looking for a place to camp. What I found was an area that was restricted on one side of the road and limited to certain activities on the other side of the road. I went up the road and knocked on the doors of 3 houses to ask if there were any clearly signed public land nearby. No one answered the doors, so I hiked back down the road and started walking back into the less restricted area. There was a large creek about 100 yards back in the brush and weeds and on the other side of the creek; there was a high bluff. I saw a deer trail going through the weeds and then could see their trail going up the bluff. I found a rock crossing of the creek and followed the deer trail up a very steep embankment. At the top was a perfect location for a bivouac where I set up camp. When I explored the area, I found an old farm trail and an old farm dump with an old rusted car body and an old farm plow. The side of the embankment had clearly been a farm dump of trash at one time. I have seen places like this in Wis. while hunting. Lots of old bottles, pans, kitchen and house hold items thrown over the side of a hill. There was a nice breeze going through the trees and my clothes dried fairly fast. I fell asleep with the sounds of cars on the road, jet liners overhead, and the stream at the bottom of the bluff. Aug 3 Walton, NY, Walton Motel (Dorrie, the owner) The map today showed FLT as nothing but road walk. It was a hot walk with some long steep hills. The last 5 miles were mostly down hill. I did 12 miles in 5 hours. I ran out of water about 4 miles from town. I attempted to hitchhike into town but could not get a ride. I was really dehydrated when I came to the edge of town, where lo-and-behold, there was a Subway. Ice water plus a Tuna Sub (I could only eat half of it). My food box had arrived at the motel. I took it to my room, got cleaned up, and then Dorrie drove me into town so that I could do some email work at the library. Again worked on the maps and distances as well as made decisions about food i.e. should I go to the grocery store and get more "just in case" food. (I deiced that I had enough food). I have been in a number of Verizon dead zones. ( I later learned that the dead zones included other service providers than Verizon) I began to recognize a growing fear. When I was planning the hike, I had the AT experience to draw upon. There on the AT, one was rarely alone on the trail or at the shelters. Here I am always alone, which means that if something were to happen to me, it was very unlikely that someone would come along to help me. Thus, my backup safety plan was my cell phone. In the western part of NY, I got Verizon service connections all the time, but here on the eastern side of the Finger Lakes Trail there are deep valleys, few towns, and apparently few telephone towers.
Aug 3rd Walton, NY
Aug 3 Walton, NY, Walton Motel (Dorrie, the owner)
The map today showed FLT as nothing but road walk. It was a hot walk with some long steep hills. The last 5 miles were mostly down hill. I did 12 miles in 5 hours. I ran out of water about 4 miles from town. I attempted to hitchhike into town but could not get a ride. I was really dehydrated when I came to the edge of town, where lo-and-behold, there was a Subway. Ice water plus a Tuna Sub (I could only eat half of it). My food box had arrived at the motel. I took it to my room, got cleaned up, and then Dorrie drove me into town so that I could do some email work at the library. Again worked on the maps and distances as well as made decisions about food i.e. should I go to the grocery store and get more "just in case" food. (I deiced that I had enough food). I have been in a number of Verizon dead zones. ( I later learned that the dead zones included other service providers than Verizon) I began to recognize a growing fear. When I was planning the hike, I had the AT experience to draw upon. There on the AT, one was rarely alone on the trail or at the shelters. Here I am always alone, which means that if something were to happen to me, it was very unlikely that someone would come along to help me. Thus, my backup safety plan was my cell phone. In the western part of NY, I got Verizon service connections all the time, but here on the eastern side of the Finger Lakes Trail there are deep valleys, few towns, and apparently few telephone towers.
The map today showed FLT as nothing but road walk. It was a hot walk with some long steep hills. The last 5 miles were mostly down hill. I did 12 miles in 5 hours. I ran out of water about 4 miles from town. I attempted to hitchhike into town but could not get a ride. I was really dehydrated when I came to the edge of town, where lo-and-behold, there was a Subway. Ice water plus a Tuna Sub (I could only eat half of it). My food box had arrived at the motel. I took it to my room, got cleaned up, and then Dorrie drove me into town so that I could do some email work at the library. Again worked on the maps and distances as well as made decisions about food i.e. should I go to the grocery store and get more "just in case" food. (I deiced that I had enough food). I have been in a number of Verizon dead zones. ( I later learned that the dead zones included other service providers than Verizon) I began to recognize a growing fear. When I was planning the hike, I had the AT experience to draw upon. There on the AT, one was rarely alone on the trail or at the shelters. Here I am always alone, which means that if something were to happen to me, it was very unlikely that someone would come along to help me. Thus, my backup safety plan was my cell phone. In the western part of NY, I got Verizon service connections all the time, but here on the eastern side of the Finger Lakes Trail there are deep valleys, few towns, and apparently few telephone towers.
Aug 4th, east of Walton, NY
Aug 4 Wed Bivouac
While hiking out of town, I was going up a long steep road hill, I stopped and did my resting position, leaning on my walking sticks, and a man stopped his car and asked if I was ok. Told him I was resting, and that I was coming down the home stretch on an end-to-end FLT hike. He wished me well. Over the whole trip, I have had 3 people make sure I was ok when I was resting. Got to the Horse Camp, which is a very nicely arranged and put together camp for horse activities. It would have been a very nice bivouac location, but I got there at 12 noon, so decided to continue. I found handfuls of blackberries on the trail this afternoon. Two very long and steep climbs this afternoon. According to the map, they were 1000 ft of vertical climb. I found my energy was good, though at the end of the day I was really tired. I saw the black bear calling card on trail in several places. It was clear that they were eating blackberries just like me. It is my estimation that had I started the hike from E to W, these hills would have taken me out, and at this point I have not gotten to the really high MT's. The high mountains are coming up next. According to the map, I was 2-3 miles from the little community of Corbett when I saw a little spring. I decided to make camp in part because I was really tired after the long climbs and in part because it was getting late. As I study the maps, it looks like water will be a real issue in the mountains over the next few days. It is clear that I like black berries and that the bears like black berries. I like Lipton dinners, it is probable that Mr. Bear will like Lipton dinners -- I hung my food bag high in the tree before going to bed. About 1 am, I was awakened by thunder and lightening to the south west of me. I got up and anchored the large tarp over the tent. Somewhere around 2 or 3 am it started to rain rather hard. I stayed warm and dry.
While hiking out of town, I was going up a long steep road hill, I stopped and did my resting position, leaning on my walking sticks, and a man stopped his car and asked if I was ok. Told him I was resting, and that I was coming down the home stretch on an end-to-end FLT hike. He wished me well. Over the whole trip, I have had 3 people make sure I was ok when I was resting. Got to the Horse Camp, which is a very nicely arranged and put together camp for horse activities. It would have been a very nice bivouac location, but I got there at 12 noon, so decided to continue. I found handfuls of blackberries on the trail this afternoon. Two very long and steep climbs this afternoon. According to the map, they were 1000 ft of vertical climb. I found my energy was good, though at the end of the day I was really tired. I saw the black bear calling card on trail in several places. It was clear that they were eating blackberries just like me. It is my estimation that had I started the hike from E to W, these hills would have taken me out, and at this point I have not gotten to the really high MT's. The high mountains are coming up next. According to the map, I was 2-3 miles from the little community of Corbett when I saw a little spring. I decided to make camp in part because I was really tired after the long climbs and in part because it was getting late. As I study the maps, it looks like water will be a real issue in the mountains over the next few days. It is clear that I like black berries and that the bears like black berries. I like Lipton dinners, it is probable that Mr. Bear will like Lipton dinners -- I hung my food bag high in the tree before going to bed. About 1 am, I was awakened by thunder and lightening to the south west of me. I got up and anchored the large tarp over the tent. Somewhere around 2 or 3 am it started to rain rather hard. I stayed warm and dry.
Aug 5th, Bivouac east of Corbett, NY
Aug 5 Bivouac
When I got up this morning the humidity was so thick, that just unzipping the tent door caused me to start sweating. When I got outside the tent, there was a heavy and very warm fog. Breaking camp in the damp fog, I found it a little difficult to breath. The last 200 yes of road before I arrived at the pavilion in the center of the community, I was saturated with sweat and shuffling my feet from exhaustion (I think I was in an over heated condition, there was no evaporation to cool me off). When I got to the pavilion, I wrung out my shirt, sat on a bench, drank water and ate some food. The sun was out so I started putting gear out to dry. I could tell that there was activity going on in the little community center so I went in to get some water. I was greeted by a group of adults who were doing various activities. I announced myself as the "happy hiker", Garth Fisher from Janesville, WI. A lady came over to me, and took me to the kitchen and let me fill up my water bottles. I learned that it was a day program for adults in the area. I told her I was a social worker in my other world and I recognized the population she was working with. She said it was a federal program, when I asked to use the phone to call Gina and let her know where I was, and that they had to account for every call. She asked if I had a calling card. Up to that point, I had not thought about needing a calling care, was not even sure they were still used, they are clearly useful in the dead zones like the one I am in. She let me use her calling card to call Gina. I wanted some one to know where I was on the map. Later when I went in for more water, I was given peanut butter and cheese crackers to add to my lunch. While I was drying things out several storms passed through. I lost about 3 hours of hiking time, but I stayed dry and regained my energy. I reached a point where I determined that I would wait tell 12:30 and then start hiking no matter the weather. I started about 12:15. There were no more showers or thunderstorms. The first part of the FLT out of town was a 6-mile road walk, with a split in the road at half way. Due to the early morning fatigue, the first part of the road walk was difficult. I came to the split in the road, had white blazes to say I was going the right direction. I continued to walk for what seemed like forever. There were no white blazes. I began to wonder if I had missed a turn off. After a little while longer, I began to despair that I really had missed a turn off and might have to back track. My water was getting low and I knew that I had to start the mountains tomorrow. I kept on walking but felt uneasy inside due to the lack of reassuring white blazes. One becomes somewhat dependent on the blazes. At a low mental state, I heard a funny sound behind me. I turned around and there was an older man in a battery powered Raschall motorized chair/cart. When he got up to me, I asked him about the trailhead, which he said was about 1/2 mile ahead -- or so. We talked about bears and "dog-yotes" and the temperature. He was going up the road to check on a house and see if someone was there this evening. He then left me in his Raschall dust. I continued to hike but felt psychologically better. On his way back, he said there was no one at the house and he was headed back to his house. I found the trailhead, hiked back into the forest and came to a bridge over a creek and found nice location to camp. I filtered 4 liters and washed up in the creek. Spooked a deer that made the usual deer warning call. As I write this, I chide myself for my worry -- whatever one might one to say it, trail magic or luck or what ever – today’s experience leads me to say I feel watched over on this solitary journey.
When I got up this morning the humidity was so thick, that just unzipping the tent door caused me to start sweating. When I got outside the tent, there was a heavy and very warm fog. Breaking camp in the damp fog, I found it a little difficult to breath. The last 200 yes of road before I arrived at the pavilion in the center of the community, I was saturated with sweat and shuffling my feet from exhaustion (I think I was in an over heated condition, there was no evaporation to cool me off). When I got to the pavilion, I wrung out my shirt, sat on a bench, drank water and ate some food. The sun was out so I started putting gear out to dry. I could tell that there was activity going on in the little community center so I went in to get some water. I was greeted by a group of adults who were doing various activities. I announced myself as the "happy hiker", Garth Fisher from Janesville, WI. A lady came over to me, and took me to the kitchen and let me fill up my water bottles. I learned that it was a day program for adults in the area. I told her I was a social worker in my other world and I recognized the population she was working with. She said it was a federal program, when I asked to use the phone to call Gina and let her know where I was, and that they had to account for every call. She asked if I had a calling card. Up to that point, I had not thought about needing a calling care, was not even sure they were still used, they are clearly useful in the dead zones like the one I am in. She let me use her calling card to call Gina. I wanted some one to know where I was on the map. Later when I went in for more water, I was given peanut butter and cheese crackers to add to my lunch. While I was drying things out several storms passed through. I lost about 3 hours of hiking time, but I stayed dry and regained my energy. I reached a point where I determined that I would wait tell 12:30 and then start hiking no matter the weather. I started about 12:15. There were no more showers or thunderstorms. The first part of the FLT out of town was a 6-mile road walk, with a split in the road at half way. Due to the early morning fatigue, the first part of the road walk was difficult. I came to the split in the road, had white blazes to say I was going the right direction. I continued to walk for what seemed like forever. There were no white blazes. I began to wonder if I had missed a turn off. After a little while longer, I began to despair that I really had missed a turn off and might have to back track. My water was getting low and I knew that I had to start the mountains tomorrow. I kept on walking but felt uneasy inside due to the lack of reassuring white blazes. One becomes somewhat dependent on the blazes. At a low mental state, I heard a funny sound behind me. I turned around and there was an older man in a battery powered Raschall motorized chair/cart. When he got up to me, I asked him about the trailhead, which he said was about 1/2 mile ahead -- or so. We talked about bears and "dog-yotes" and the temperature. He was going up the road to check on a house and see if someone was there this evening. He then left me in his Raschall dust. I continued to hike but felt psychologically better. On his way back, he said there was no one at the house and he was headed back to his house. I found the trailhead, hiked back into the forest and came to a bridge over a creek and found nice location to camp. I filtered 4 liters and washed up in the creek. Spooked a deer that made the usual deer warning call. As I write this, I chide myself for my worry -- whatever one might one to say it, trail magic or luck or what ever – today’s experience leads me to say I feel watched over on this solitary journey.
Aug 6th, East of Brook Mt.
Aug 6 bivouac east of Brook Mt., just off Berry Brook Rd
I had hoped to get over both Brook and Mary Smith Mt's today. The distance on the map was within my range and I think even with the elevations, I could have done it. But this was not a normal condition. The hike from the bivouac to the top of Brook Mt was ok; it was the down side of the hike that was one of the worse hiking conditions I have ever encountered. There were 100's after 100's of yards of over hanging shoulder and head high raspberry bushes making a curtain over the path. I had to wade slowly through every foot of the overhanging bushes and be extra careful of the debris that was covered by the vegetation. It was a steep downhill in places and I had to inch my way down. The thorns tugged at my shoes, legs, shirt, pack and arms. I was bleeding from numerous cuts when I finally got down to the bottom. It was an absolute nightmare! Later I came to an intersection of the trails and met two men with 6 kids who looked like they were 10-12 years old. The leader, said he born in Ripley, WI. We talked about the trail in both directions and the lack of water. They were headed to the shelter that I had stopped at this morning and had to go up the steep slope I had just come down. He told me that my way out and to the next road had lots of raspberry bushes also. I wanted to tell him to just camp right were he was, after all it was 2 pm in the afternoon, but it was clear that they planned to reach the shelter by night fall. One of the men had on tennis shoes, no socks and cut off jeans. They told me there was not water ahead and that I should turn right when I got to the road and go to one of the houses on the road for water. We went out separate ways. I was low on water but had enough to get to the road. As I hiked I looked for an area that probably had a water source. Over the course of the hike, I had noticed that where there were sudden muddy areas in unexpected places. In these locations I observed there was a certain kind of plant growing and that the plant followed the moisture path. I came across a ribbon of the plants, put my backpack down, and did a recon. through the area. I came across the source and found a small run off from the spring. I went back to my pack and got my green cup and the 2 one-liter bottles. It took me some time at 2-3 oz's per dip to fill the bottles, but I did get them filled. With them filled and some water in my 2-liter bottle, I was free to camp when I found a place. I figured that I would take care of getting water for the hike over Mary Smith Mt the next day. My little green cup, which was my dad's cup that he used while he was sick and before he died, came to the rescue for water once again. When I made camp, I filtered the water I had gotten at the little spring, ate dinner and went to bed. Sometime around 1am or so, I heard a night animal sound that I had never heard before. It sent chills down my back. It was close and moving. It sounded part bird and part mammal. It gradually moved further away traveling at a slow pace. The only thing I can figure is that it was an owl. Later a fox started yipping nearby, but I recognized that sound, no worries, but I was frustrated by the interruption of my sleep, I got out of the tent and yelled at it. The fox stopped making its night sound and I went back to sleep. Aug 7 I fretted about finding enough water to go over Mary Smith Mt and the other mountains last evening and early this morning. I packed up and returned to the road and went to the first house. I went up to the front door, I could hear people talking inside, and rang the doorbell. A woman came to the door and saw that I was a hiker. I announced myself as Garth Fisher, from Janesville, WI that I was finishing off a hike of the FLT and was out of water. She responded that she was from Verona, WI, worked for WIS NPR and was here visiting her parents. She invited me in for coffee and said that water would be no problem. For the next hour we talked of NY, WIS, and her dad told me and later showed me things about his work history. He is 87 and at one time worked for GM setting up large shows in NY related to new car models. He also did pro/am golf. They told me the story about the man who built the stone fence behind the house. And, I learned that his wife had fed a fox in the back yard for years. She created the term Fox Box verses Doggie Bag. I left and hiked the Mt's with enough water and got to Little Pond Campground in the late afternoon. They had my food box but the campground was filled. One of the women working at the gate offered to take me to Big Pond where there was public camping as well as recreation. We drove up there and came across the FLT in the Big Pond parking lot. I hiked about a mile to the back of the pond and found a campsite for the night beside an old stone fence. Aug 8th I had a graduation dream last night at Big Pond. It was like a college graduation, but I sensed it was more about my spiritual journal over the past 7 weeks. I continue to be in a Verizon dead zone and have not been able to contact Gina to let her know that I will more than likely be in Claryville tomorrow. Had a small black bear cross the road in front of me, it paused looked at me, I talked to it as I always do with bears, and then it went off down the hill into the woods. My only encounter with a bear the whole hike. On the map I had 8 miles to hike to get to Balsam Lean To. I started hiking at 7:30 am. Around 11 am the trail came to a crossroads. I hiked down the road a ways to see if there was a house I could approach and ask to use a phone. There was no house, at least within a distance I was willing to walk. I flagged down a car. The man said he was going to a little store and would call Gina if they had a pay phone. I gave him the information. I continued on to lake/pond ??????. As I approached the entrance I talked with a group of women and explained my need to get a message to Gina. They were surprise to see that none of their phones could get service. Like me they expected to be able to get service at any time and anywhere. One of them said she would deliver a message to Gina when they got home. (she did and that is how Gina and Pat knew I would be in Claryville the next day). From that point on the hike was a continuous uphill eventually to 3200 ft. I began to realize that I was going to complete the hike that I started on June 18th. The weather is mild, a strong breeze, my arms and leg are cut up from the raspberry bushes. I have water but am drinking it rapidly as I sweat very heavy. At 3 mile mark up the mountain there was a lean to. Someone had left a can of refried beans. I opened the can and ate half of it and buried the other half. I did not want to overload my stomach with a heavy food. At a rest stop, a day hiker came by, reassured me that I could make the Balsam shelter but she make an off hand comment that I could always camp. The day hiker went ahead, got to the look out point, and came back heading down hill. I wish I could hike that fast. She did complement me on my light weight pack compared to other long distance hikers she had met on the trail. I continued to hike but felt exhaustion coming on. I also had a limited amount of water, which re-enforced the idea that I had to make the shelter before dusk. There have been times when I was moving fast on the trail, and rather than a smooth hiking gait, it was more like a controlled stumble; this was my method of hiking today. At some point I hit a rock or root and twisted my left leg. I began to have a small sharp pain in my let hip joint. This was a different sensation from the sensitivity I have mentioned before in my hip replacement joint. Over the course of the hike, I have said to myself "give me a trickle of water and a 3 X 7 ft flat spot and I can make camp. I could not gauge how far I had come or how close I was to the shelter when I spotted a very small spring flow going across the trail. I looked down hill and saw a small pool of water. I investigated the pool. I could get 2-3 oz's of water at a dip. I decided to make camp on the trail. The trail was on a 30-yard shelf with steep sides both up and down. I dropped my pack and took a 1 gal Ziploc with my green cup to the pool. The water was murky and I got more than enough to filter out 3 liters. As I was unloading my pack, I notice a flat spot behind a 5 ft vertical out cropping of rock. The tent just fit. When a strong wind came up during the night, the rock blocked it. I slept well after hiking 9 hours today. One more day and the hike is completed. Aug 9 Claryville, NY, 563 miles, 52 day journey. I made my decision to camp on the trail based on the information I had at hand. I was told the trail to Balsam lean to was very steep. I had a new type of pain in my hip. I was not sure how close I was to the lean to when I found the water. I had vowed to be careful at the beginning of the hike and figured I should continue to follow that plan. After I started hiking this morning, I learned that I was an hour away from the shelter so techniquically I could have made it. But I was tired and tired people more easily make mistakes. Overall, I think it was the right decision. I also think that camping like that on my last night spoke to the quality of the hike that I had hoped for when I started. I was careful to the end. Today my hip felt fine. I hiked 15 miles, on route to Claryville. It was quiet a contrast to my 4 miles a day at the beginning of the hike. On the way down, I met an older man with 10-12 early HS girls eating lunch on the trail. He looked unkempt compared to the girls. They all had camping gear. He told me it would take me 2 days to get to Claryville and that there was a monstrous hill to climb to get to town. The hill never appeared and I got to Claryville at 3:30 pm The Blue Hill Lodge does not have a pay phone. It continues to be a Verizon dead zone. I do not know if Gina got my messages yesterday. The owner of the lodge says he will give me one free call. I call Gina's house and left a message on the answering machine. At this point I do not know what is on my voice mail. What a sense of "lack of control" with the one call limit the owner allowed me to make. The need for a calling card is very clear at this point. Since there is a lodge and there is a room available at $90, I decide to wait and see if Gina or Pat would come to get me. If they have not gotten here by 7 or 8 pm I will rent a room. I buy a Gatorade and start working on my journal. Within an hour Pat drives into the parking lot. He had gotten lost; otherwise he would have been there much earlier than my arrival. It worked out really well for me -- trail magic right up to the last hour.
I had hoped to get over both Brook and Mary Smith Mt's today. The distance on the map was within my range and I think even with the elevations, I could have done it. But this was not a normal condition. The hike from the bivouac to the top of Brook Mt was ok; it was the down side of the hike that was one of the worse hiking conditions I have ever encountered. There were 100's after 100's of yards of over hanging shoulder and head high raspberry bushes making a curtain over the path. I had to wade slowly through every foot of the overhanging bushes and be extra careful of the debris that was covered by the vegetation. It was a steep downhill in places and I had to inch my way down. The thorns tugged at my shoes, legs, shirt, pack and arms. I was bleeding from numerous cuts when I finally got down to the bottom. It was an absolute nightmare! Later I came to an intersection of the trails and met two men with 6 kids who looked like they were 10-12 years old. The leader, said he born in Ripley, WI. We talked about the trail in both directions and the lack of water. They were headed to the shelter that I had stopped at this morning and had to go up the steep slope I had just come down. He told me that my way out and to the next road had lots of raspberry bushes also. I wanted to tell him to just camp right were he was, after all it was 2 pm in the afternoon, but it was clear that they planned to reach the shelter by night fall. One of the men had on tennis shoes, no socks and cut off jeans. They told me there was not water ahead and that I should turn right when I got to the road and go to one of the houses on the road for water. We went out separate ways. I was low on water but had enough to get to the road. As I hiked I looked for an area that probably had a water source. Over the course of the hike, I had noticed that where there were sudden muddy areas in unexpected places. In these locations I observed there was a certain kind of plant growing and that the plant followed the moisture path. I came across a ribbon of the plants, put my backpack down, and did a recon. through the area. I came across the source and found a small run off from the spring. I went back to my pack and got my green cup and the 2 one-liter bottles. It took me some time at 2-3 oz's per dip to fill the bottles, but I did get them filled. With them filled and some water in my 2-liter bottle, I was free to camp when I found a place. I figured that I would take care of getting water for the hike over Mary Smith Mt the next day. My little green cup, which was my dad's cup that he used while he was sick and before he died, came to the rescue for water once again. When I made camp, I filtered the water I had gotten at the little spring, ate dinner and went to bed. Sometime around 1am or so, I heard a night animal sound that I had never heard before. It sent chills down my back. It was close and moving. It sounded part bird and part mammal. It gradually moved further away traveling at a slow pace. The only thing I can figure is that it was an owl. Later a fox started yipping nearby, but I recognized that sound, no worries, but I was frustrated by the interruption of my sleep, I got out of the tent and yelled at it. The fox stopped making its night sound and I went back to sleep. Aug 7 I fretted about finding enough water to go over Mary Smith Mt and the other mountains last evening and early this morning. I packed up and returned to the road and went to the first house. I went up to the front door, I could hear people talking inside, and rang the doorbell. A woman came to the door and saw that I was a hiker. I announced myself as Garth Fisher, from Janesville, WI that I was finishing off a hike of the FLT and was out of water. She responded that she was from Verona, WI, worked for WIS NPR and was here visiting her parents. She invited me in for coffee and said that water would be no problem. For the next hour we talked of NY, WIS, and her dad told me and later showed me things about his work history. He is 87 and at one time worked for GM setting up large shows in NY related to new car models. He also did pro/am golf. They told me the story about the man who built the stone fence behind the house. And, I learned that his wife had fed a fox in the back yard for years. She created the term Fox Box verses Doggie Bag. I left and hiked the Mt's with enough water and got to Little Pond Campground in the late afternoon. They had my food box but the campground was filled. One of the women working at the gate offered to take me to Big Pond where there was public camping as well as recreation. We drove up there and came across the FLT in the Big Pond parking lot. I hiked about a mile to the back of the pond and found a campsite for the night beside an old stone fence. Aug 8th I had a graduation dream last night at Big Pond. It was like a college graduation, but I sensed it was more about my spiritual journal over the past 7 weeks. I continue to be in a Verizon dead zone and have not been able to contact Gina to let her know that I will more than likely be in Claryville tomorrow. Had a small black bear cross the road in front of me, it paused looked at me, I talked to it as I always do with bears, and then it went off down the hill into the woods. My only encounter with a bear the whole hike. On the map I had 8 miles to hike to get to Balsam Lean To. I started hiking at 7:30 am. Around 11 am the trail came to a crossroads. I hiked down the road a ways to see if there was a house I could approach and ask to use a phone. There was no house, at least within a distance I was willing to walk. I flagged down a car. The man said he was going to a little store and would call Gina if they had a pay phone. I gave him the information. I continued on to lake/pond ??????. As I approached the entrance I talked with a group of women and explained my need to get a message to Gina. They were surprise to see that none of their phones could get service. Like me they expected to be able to get service at any time and anywhere. One of them said she would deliver a message to Gina when they got home. (she did and that is how Gina and Pat knew I would be in Claryville the next day). From that point on the hike was a continuous uphill eventually to 3200 ft. I began to realize that I was going to complete the hike that I started on June 18th. The weather is mild, a strong breeze, my arms and leg are cut up from the raspberry bushes. I have water but am drinking it rapidly as I sweat very heavy. At 3 mile mark up the mountain there was a lean to. Someone had left a can of refried beans. I opened the can and ate half of it and buried the other half. I did not want to overload my stomach with a heavy food. At a rest stop, a day hiker came by, reassured me that I could make the Balsam shelter but she make an off hand comment that I could always camp. The day hiker went ahead, got to the look out point, and came back heading down hill. I wish I could hike that fast. She did complement me on my light weight pack compared to other long distance hikers she had met on the trail. I continued to hike but felt exhaustion coming on. I also had a limited amount of water, which re-enforced the idea that I had to make the shelter before dusk. There have been times when I was moving fast on the trail, and rather than a smooth hiking gait, it was more like a controlled stumble; this was my method of hiking today. At some point I hit a rock or root and twisted my left leg. I began to have a small sharp pain in my let hip joint. This was a different sensation from the sensitivity I have mentioned before in my hip replacement joint. Over the course of the hike, I have said to myself "give me a trickle of water and a 3 X 7 ft flat spot and I can make camp. I could not gauge how far I had come or how close I was to the shelter when I spotted a very small spring flow going across the trail. I looked down hill and saw a small pool of water. I investigated the pool. I could get 2-3 oz's of water at a dip. I decided to make camp on the trail. The trail was on a 30-yard shelf with steep sides both up and down. I dropped my pack and took a 1 gal Ziploc with my green cup to the pool. The water was murky and I got more than enough to filter out 3 liters. As I was unloading my pack, I notice a flat spot behind a 5 ft vertical out cropping of rock. The tent just fit. When a strong wind came up during the night, the rock blocked it. I slept well after hiking 9 hours today. One more day and the hike is completed. Aug 9 Claryville, NY, 563 miles, 52 day journey. I made my decision to camp on the trail based on the information I had at hand. I was told the trail to Balsam lean to was very steep. I had a new type of pain in my hip. I was not sure how close I was to the lean to when I found the water. I had vowed to be careful at the beginning of the hike and figured I should continue to follow that plan. After I started hiking this morning, I learned that I was an hour away from the shelter so techniquically I could have made it. But I was tired and tired people more easily make mistakes. Overall, I think it was the right decision. I also think that camping like that on my last night spoke to the quality of the hike that I had hoped for when I started. I was careful to the end. Today my hip felt fine. I hiked 15 miles, on route to Claryville. It was quiet a contrast to my 4 miles a day at the beginning of the hike. On the way down, I met an older man with 10-12 early HS girls eating lunch on the trail. He looked unkempt compared to the girls. They all had camping gear. He told me it would take me 2 days to get to Claryville and that there was a monstrous hill to climb to get to town. The hill never appeared and I got to Claryville at 3:30 pm The Blue Hill Lodge does not have a pay phone. It continues to be a Verizon dead zone. I do not know if Gina got my messages yesterday. The owner of the lodge says he will give me one free call. I call Gina's house and left a message on the answering machine. At this point I do not know what is on my voice mail. What a sense of "lack of control" with the one call limit the owner allowed me to make. The need for a calling card is very clear at this point. Since there is a lodge and there is a room available at $90, I decide to wait and see if Gina or Pat would come to get me. If they have not gotten here by 7 or 8 pm I will rent a room. I buy a Gatorade and start working on my journal. Within an hour Pat drives into the parking lot. He had gotten lost; otherwise he would have been there much earlier than my arrival. It worked out really well for me -- trail magic right up to the last hour.
Aug 7 th Big Pond
Aug 7
I fretted about finding enough water to go over Mary Smith Mt and the other mountains last evening and early this morning. I packed up and returned to the road and went to the first house. I went up to the front door, I could hear people talking inside, and rang the doorbell. A woman came to the door and saw that I was a hiker. I announced myself as Garth Fisher, from Janesville, WI that I was finishing off a hike of the FLT and was out of water. She responded that she was from Verona, WI, worked for WIS NPR and was here visiting her parents. She invited me in for coffee and said that water would be no problem. For the next hour we talked of NY, WIS, and her dad told me and later showed me things about his work history. He is 87 and at one time worked for GM setting up large shows in NY related to new car models. He also did pro/am golf. They told me the story about the man who built the stone fence behind the house. And, I learned that his wife had fed a fox in the back yard for years. She created the term Fox Box verses Doggie Bag. I left and hiked the Mt's with enough water and got to Little Pond Campground in the late afternoon. They had my food box but the campground was filled. One of the women working at the gate offered to take me to Big Pond where there was public camping as well as recreation. We drove up there and came across the FLT in the Big Pond parking lot. I hiked about a mile to the back of the pond and found a campsite for the night beside an old stone fence.
I fretted about finding enough water to go over Mary Smith Mt and the other mountains last evening and early this morning. I packed up and returned to the road and went to the first house. I went up to the front door, I could hear people talking inside, and rang the doorbell. A woman came to the door and saw that I was a hiker. I announced myself as Garth Fisher, from Janesville, WI that I was finishing off a hike of the FLT and was out of water. She responded that she was from Verona, WI, worked for WIS NPR and was here visiting her parents. She invited me in for coffee and said that water would be no problem. For the next hour we talked of NY, WIS, and her dad told me and later showed me things about his work history. He is 87 and at one time worked for GM setting up large shows in NY related to new car models. He also did pro/am golf. They told me the story about the man who built the stone fence behind the house. And, I learned that his wife had fed a fox in the back yard for years. She created the term Fox Box verses Doggie Bag. I left and hiked the Mt's with enough water and got to Little Pond Campground in the late afternoon. They had my food box but the campground was filled. One of the women working at the gate offered to take me to Big Pond where there was public camping as well as recreation. We drove up there and came across the FLT in the Big Pond parking lot. I hiked about a mile to the back of the pond and found a campsite for the night beside an old stone fence.
Home Stretch
Aug 8th
I had a graduation dream last night at Big Pond. It was like a college graduation, but I sensed it was more about my spiritual journal over the past 7 weeks. I continue to be in a Verizon dead zone and have not been able to contact Gina to let her know that I will more than likely be in Claryville tomorrow. Had a small black bear cross the road in front of me, it paused looked at me, I talked to it as I always do with bears, and then it went off down the hill into the woods. My only encounter with a bear the whole hike. On the map I had 8 miles to hike to get to Balsam Lean To. I started hiking at 7:30 am. Around 11 am the trail came to a crossroads. I hiked down the road a ways to see if there was a house I could approach and ask to use a phone. There was no house, at least within a distance I was willing to walk. I flagged down a car. The man said he was going to a little store and would call Gina if they had a pay phone. I gave him the information. I continued on to lake/pond ??????. As I approached the entrance I talked with a group of women and explained my need to get a message to Gina. They were surprise to see that none of their phones could get service. Like me they expected to be able to get service at any time and anywhere. One of them said she would deliver a message to Gina when they got home. (she did and that is how Gina and Pat knew I would be in Claryville the next day). From that point on the hike was a continuous uphill eventually to 3200 ft. I began to realize that I was going to complete the hike that I started on June 18th. The weather is mild, a strong breeze, my arms and leg are cut up from the raspberry bushes. I have water but am drinking it rapidly as I sweat very heavy. At 3 mile mark up the mountain there was a lean to. Someone had left a can of refried beans. I opened the can and ate half of it and buried the other half. I did not want to overload my stomach with a heavy food. At a rest stop, a day hiker came by, reassured me that I could make the Balsam shelter but she make an off hand comment that I could always camp. The day hiker went ahead, got to the look out point, and came back heading down hill. I wish I could hike that fast. She did complement me on my light weight pack compared to other long distance hikers she had met on the trail. I continued to hike but felt exhaustion coming on. I also had a limited amount of water, which re-enforced the idea that I had to make the shelter before dusk. There have been times when I was moving fast on the trail, and rather than a smooth hiking gait, it was more like a controlled stumble; this was my method of hiking today. At some point I hit a rock or root and twisted my left leg. I began to have a small sharp pain in my let hip joint. This was a different sensation from the sensitivity I have mentioned before in my hip replacement joint. Over the course of the hike, I have said to myself "give me a trickle of water and a 3 X 7 ft flat spot and I can make camp. I could not gauge how far I had come or how close I was to the shelter when I spotted a very small spring flow going across the trail. I looked down hill and saw a small pool of water. I investigated the pool. I could get 2-3 oz's of water at a dip. I decided to make camp on the trail. The trail was on a 30-yard shelf with steep sides both up and down. I dropped my pack and took a 1 gal Ziploc with my green cup to the pool. The water was murky and I got more than enough to filter out 3 liters. As I was unloading my pack, I notice a flat spot behind a 5 ft vertical out cropping of rock. The tent just fit. When a strong wind came up during the night, the rock blocked it. I slept well after hiking 9 hours today. One more day and the hike is completed.
I had a graduation dream last night at Big Pond. It was like a college graduation, but I sensed it was more about my spiritual journal over the past 7 weeks. I continue to be in a Verizon dead zone and have not been able to contact Gina to let her know that I will more than likely be in Claryville tomorrow. Had a small black bear cross the road in front of me, it paused looked at me, I talked to it as I always do with bears, and then it went off down the hill into the woods. My only encounter with a bear the whole hike. On the map I had 8 miles to hike to get to Balsam Lean To. I started hiking at 7:30 am. Around 11 am the trail came to a crossroads. I hiked down the road a ways to see if there was a house I could approach and ask to use a phone. There was no house, at least within a distance I was willing to walk. I flagged down a car. The man said he was going to a little store and would call Gina if they had a pay phone. I gave him the information. I continued on to lake/pond ??????. As I approached the entrance I talked with a group of women and explained my need to get a message to Gina. They were surprise to see that none of their phones could get service. Like me they expected to be able to get service at any time and anywhere. One of them said she would deliver a message to Gina when they got home. (she did and that is how Gina and Pat knew I would be in Claryville the next day). From that point on the hike was a continuous uphill eventually to 3200 ft. I began to realize that I was going to complete the hike that I started on June 18th. The weather is mild, a strong breeze, my arms and leg are cut up from the raspberry bushes. I have water but am drinking it rapidly as I sweat very heavy. At 3 mile mark up the mountain there was a lean to. Someone had left a can of refried beans. I opened the can and ate half of it and buried the other half. I did not want to overload my stomach with a heavy food. At a rest stop, a day hiker came by, reassured me that I could make the Balsam shelter but she make an off hand comment that I could always camp. The day hiker went ahead, got to the look out point, and came back heading down hill. I wish I could hike that fast. She did complement me on my light weight pack compared to other long distance hikers she had met on the trail. I continued to hike but felt exhaustion coming on. I also had a limited amount of water, which re-enforced the idea that I had to make the shelter before dusk. There have been times when I was moving fast on the trail, and rather than a smooth hiking gait, it was more like a controlled stumble; this was my method of hiking today. At some point I hit a rock or root and twisted my left leg. I began to have a small sharp pain in my let hip joint. This was a different sensation from the sensitivity I have mentioned before in my hip replacement joint. Over the course of the hike, I have said to myself "give me a trickle of water and a 3 X 7 ft flat spot and I can make camp. I could not gauge how far I had come or how close I was to the shelter when I spotted a very small spring flow going across the trail. I looked down hill and saw a small pool of water. I investigated the pool. I could get 2-3 oz's of water at a dip. I decided to make camp on the trail. The trail was on a 30-yard shelf with steep sides both up and down. I dropped my pack and took a 1 gal Ziploc with my green cup to the pool. The water was murky and I got more than enough to filter out 3 liters. As I was unloading my pack, I notice a flat spot behind a 5 ft vertical out cropping of rock. The tent just fit. When a strong wind came up during the night, the rock blocked it. I slept well after hiking 9 hours today. One more day and the hike is completed.
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