Monday, September 6, 2010

Introduction

Introduction to: The Old Man and the Trail, A Solitary Journey of Renewal

Garth Fisher
In 2000 I did a through hike of the Appalachian Trail, at the age of 60. I then worked as a Ridgerunner for the AT in New Jersey for 4 summers. I completed my first marathon in 2005. In 2008 I had a hip replacement and doubted that I would ever do a long distance hike again. I learned this year, 2010 that I could do a long distance hike. In my other life,I am therapist, Hospice Volunteer, and an Intuitive Energy Reader, I have attempted to understand myself, my work, my clients, and our world as deeply as possible. My goal with my Blogs is to share some of my experiences and thoughts as well as offer you the reader a space to share your relevant experiences and thoughts to the subject of the Blog. My plan is to add the comments made about a post to the post itself as an extension. I appreciate your participation and look forward to hearing from you. Respectfully Garth Fisher

Thoughts and preparation for the Hike

Thoughts and Preparation for the Hike

There are two levels to my preparation for a long distance hike. The first level relates to my inner process, and the second relates to the technical aspects of getting ready for the hike.

The Inner Process: It has been 10 years since I did my Thru hike of the Applachian Trail. It has been 5 years since I worked on the AT in New Jersey and ran my marathon in Las Vagas. After the marathon, my hip began to seriously deteriorate, leading to a hip replacement 2 years ago. I went from 5 years of yearly heavy duty exercising, to 5 years of slowly and steadily becoming a couch potatoe physically. Yet, as I worked more as a therapist, I exercised my brain more and more. Yet, as I approached my 70th birthday, I progressively felt like my life was over or coming to an end. Looking back on the process, there was a gradual void starting at age 65. During the months of my 69th year, I realized that I had never thought about my life beyond 70. There was a void in my consciousness relating to the future past a certain age. During this time frame, I was working for two psychiatric clinics one in Janesville and one in Madsion, totaling about 50-55 hours a week. My focus was on helping others. I took that responsiblity seriously and whatever I could to assist others in their quest to feel and behave better. While at the same time, I did very little to take care of myself. Gradually, an image began to form in my awareness. It started with me looking back over the journey of my life. The view was a landscape made up of jungles, valleys, rivers, swamps, and mountains all of which I had struggle through and survived all of those obstecles, and now I was standing on a ridge with all of those trials behind me. When I turned around and looked forward, I saw a large plain in front of me. I knew that somewhere over the horizon there was (is) the OCEAN of LIFE. In my personal spiritual philosophy, the OCEAN is where we came from and where we all return -- the cycle of birth and death. Once the above image and view of my life settled into my awareness, the logical next question is, "what do I do on the journey from here to there?" I also realized that to do anything, I needed to have an open time space This awareness lead to the realization, that to create a space, I would need to retire from my work.

This was a difficult decision, because I felt a responsibility to my clients, and the idea of me "abandoning" (which meant that I referred them to other therapist) them was very distasteful. I experienced various episodes and levels of guilt. Once I concluded that I would create a time space for myself, I had to decide what I was going to do. Doing a long distance hike of at least 500 miles was my primary thought. I had been talking about doing the El Cameno pilgrimage trail in northern Spain for 3 years. When I started looking at 500 mile trails beside Spain, I came across the Bruce Trail in Canada, the Grande Trail in AZ and NM, the Finger Lakes Trail in New York, and a coastal hike along England's coast.

According to the FLT Conference, only about 20 people thru-hike the trail each year. The total number of thru-hikers in the trail’s 48 year history is a mere 289. The trail takes about six to seven weeks to complete, and it’s easy to go an entire week without seeing another hiker.

The Technical Process: see next page

Technical Preparation

Technical Preparation:

Decision making, at least for me, is a long process of mulling something over and over. It can be in the background of my mind for a long time, while my day to day activities are in the foreground. Eventually, a conclusion forms, and the answer becomes progressively more clear. Deciding to do a 500 mile hike, required a 3-4 month time space. In turn this required, a 3 months or so planning and walking through the process of retiring from my work, deciding which trail to hike, planning meals, and deciding and if necessary purchasing gear. I started with doing an internet search of all the trails under consideration and looking for books on each trail. I then ordered maps of the trails and then started evaluating the terrain, local resources i.e. nearby towns, possible food drops through post offices or motels. There was also the consideration of which direction to travel -- east to west or west to east, all the trails I was considering went in these directions. I gradually eleminated: the NM/AZ trail because of the mountains, the Bruce trail because it was out of country and had very few towns near the trail, the El Camino trail because it was out of country and I did not have time to learn sufficient Spanish to feel comfortable navigating through Spain. The Finger Lakes Trail had one other plus. In 2003, I worked with Pat and Gina on the NJ Appalachian Trail as a Ridgerunner. They were living in Ithaca, NY, the middle of the FLT, and they had invited me to visit at different times over the years. I chose to do an End-to-End hike, as they call it, of the Finger Lakes Trail. The distance would be 550 miles plus. The starting time would be in mid-June. The basic plan was to drive to Ind. and visit my mother and some HS friends, Ted and Wanda, and then drive to Ithaca where I would leave my car while I hiked over the next 6-7 weeks.

Using the FLT maps, I plotted out an itenerary, and made up food boxes that Pat and Gina could send to me at post offices (general delivery) or motels. The next task was to sort through the gear I had and consider what new gear I needed to purchase. My doctor had who did my hip surgery 2 years ago, advised me to keep my pack weight at around 30 pounds. Historically, my pack weight was usually around 40-45 pounds. I will review my gear and what I have learned to be truly necessary gear and considerations for an end-to-end hike of the FLT in another segment of the Indtroduction (next page).

I then started the journey of retirement, buying gear, and a modest attempt of getting physically in better shape. Over the past 5 years I had gradually gained weight, my doctor's lab workups said that my body was not doing so well, and my psychology was depressed. My outlook on life was definitely at a low point, and my overall energy level was the lowest it had been in 35 years.

Essential Equipment and Gear -- from my experience

Essential Equipment/Gear  --  from my experience

1. FLT maps

It will be very difficult to do an End-to-End hike without the maps and the information on the back
of the maps. There are stretches where the white blazes are few and far between. The mileage on
the back is just for that specific map. You have to do your own math for the whole trail. The first
half of the maps uses access points which makes it easier to locate yourself on the map and figure
mileage. The eastern maps do not have access points. The mileage on the trail signs do not always
agree with the map mileage, but that was never a problem.

2. A small compass

There are times when the road signs are twisted and the direction is not clear. Also, in the woods
with the thick canopy it is sometimes difficult to use the sun for directions.

3. Pump water filter

Springs are few and far between. Most water has to come from creeks and a few ponds. There is
allot of sediment even when the water looks clear.

4. A good tent

Shelters are few and far between. Unlike the Appalachian Trail where shelters are spaced with
long distance hikers, the FLT is geared more for local hikers and day hikers. I spent most of
my nights sleeping in my tent.

5. Hard soled boots

I estimate that 35 % of the FLT is a road walk. I wore out my first set of boots at 300 miles
in part due to the hot road walks. There were times when the road played tar baby with my
boots and hiking poles. There were a number of hiking days over 90 degrees in late Jun and Jul

5. A broad brimmed hat and sun screen for the arms

The road walks often did not have shade. My arms got burnt before I bought some sunscreen.

6. Hiking pants with zip off legs

The raspberry bushes were terrible from the very beginning of the hike, but really bad in the Catskill Mountains. I am not sure if it is better in the early summer, but they make parts of the
hike miserable.

7. Walking sticks (if for nothing else to push the raspberry bushes out of the way)

8. Stove and fuel

While the shelters had fire pits, the bivouac areas did not.

9. Water bottles for at least 4 liters of water.

5 liters would probably be better except for the weight. I had to ask for water at a number of houses, and there were times when I had to conserve my water between fill ups.

10. Rope to hang food bags in the a tree

There are no bear boxes or hanging lines for food. While I saw only one bear, I did see some bear sign. The locals were always telling about bear sightings in the neighborhood.

11. 1st Aid (include some NewSkin, there are little containers now at stores) and a sawing kit
I hiked alone for the whole hike, and met a few day hikers. I was alone at the all the shelters
except

2, which means there is little or no back up from fellow hikers like it was on the AT.

There are also numerous cell phone dead zones, some in the east, but especially in the Catskills.

12. A prepaid calling card

There were 4 times when I could have used a calling card. Fortunately people let me use their
land line without charge.

13. Enough cash, and ID

3 motels did not take credit cards. I carried travelers checks and cash, but ran low later in the
hike and had to have my support crew send me cash. The travelers checks confused some of the stores I shopped at.

14. Cell phone

15. 2 LED flashlights – one for backup and one for regular use.

My Gear

My Gear

1. Backpack: Osprey H2O, Aether 70

2. Big Agnes air core Mummy: very good, though I always hand checked the tent floor for sharps

45 degree down sleeping bag from Campmor

3. MSR water pump filter

4. OR knee length Gaiters

5. Esbit stove and fuel pellets, one pellet cooked my evening meal

6. ¾ Liter aluminum cook pot from Campmor

7. Sierra Designs XL stuff rain jacket

8. Wenzel 2 man (really 1 ½) Lone Tree 7X5: the zipper leaked during any rain, used a tarp over it

9. Keehn hiking boots, second pair Timberline

10. Broad brimmed hat with ventilation from Walmart

11. 6 ft hiking sticks from the local woods

12. Hiking pants with zip off legs from Campmor, light weight shirts (smelled bad), (next time wool)

Wool socks were great, minimal smell and dried fast.

13. Vivitar digital camera

14. 1 Two liter platypus with tube and bite valve, 2 one liter platy’s

15. Backup white Iodine, 2oz

16. 2 Led flashlights, small

17. Sewing kit and 1st Aid kit with liquid newskin and bandages, large nail clippers and tweezer

P38 can opener, a metal whistle, pen and 3x5 cards

18. Small knife, 1 ½ in. blade

19. Bandana

20. Small absorbent towel from Campmor

21. 2 twenty five feet lengths of 1/8th cord

22. 2 ground clothes, silicon impregnated nylon, one small and one large

23. 6 clothes pins

24. 8oz plastic cup hung on back of pack

25. 1 pair camp shoes Crocks from Walmart

26. Wet-ones one pack per 5 days hiking

27. Small bottle of soap

28. TP and tooth paste and brush (I cut my hair very short)

29. Cell phone, money, travelers checks

30. Drivers license and credit card.

June 18th The First Steps

June 18th

10 years ago I was 6 weeks into hiking the AT, on my first day on the AT, I did the approach trail with a 55 pound pack, 8 miles up to the first camp site. Now 10 years later, I felt exhausted after 1 mile up hill at the start of the FLT at the Penn/NY boarder with a 38-pound pack. I had planned to get to a shelter after 7 miles. But, I came to a stream at 4 miles, debated whether or not to stop, Started to go ahead, walked 200 yards, reminded myself that exhausted hikers, in the late afternoon, are the most vulnerable to injury or getting lost. I turned back, made camp, and slept 10 hours. Everyone back home kept advising me to be careful. 10 years ago I probably would have pushed on, I chose to play it safe, follow the advise of others, and trust my experience and my head rather than my ego. I find that my head has much less chatter in it this time out or even back in WIS.

June 19th Beck Hollow Shelter

June 19th, Beck Hollow Shelter

How many time does one have to think about quitting before they quit, so far, several hundred times has not been enough. I have thoughts like, I really do not have to do this, it is comfortable back in WIS, my body is too weak, I am too slow, I will never get the trail done at this rate, etc, but mainly it was the feeling that was dumb to be doing this when I could be comfortable somewhere else, and at this stage of my life, there is no requirement to do this kind of challenge. It is not the ego trip of the AT, I don't find myself thinking of myself as superior to others like I did on the AT, I am just an old man, stumbling along alone on this path that is worn, but I have not seen anyone else hiking on. I changed my goal today from hiking the whole trail to seeing how many miles I can hike in 6 weeks. That took a load off my psyche. I have found that my body is much more limited than 10 years ago on the AT. I reached a point of exhaustion, where no amount of will power could make me go faster, I found that if I pushed even a little too much, the exhaustion got worse. I stumbled along the trail verses walk, hike, or stroll. There is a line that if I go past it, I fade. I stop often, sometimes only after 30 yards, sometimes I make 100 yards, especially on the uphill side, even going down hill is hard work at this point. I learned how wise I was to stop last night, when I got to the top of the ridge; I missed a white blaze and took the NCT, which is easy, since they overlap often. Anyway, I came down hill on the NCT rather than the FLT. Met 3 men out for a day hike; they aimed in the right direction. I got to the parking lot they told me about and a map, which did not show the FLT. I flagged down a young maintaince man, who took me to the office, and gave me water. We checked out the map with someone else at the park, he then took me over to the start of the FLT. I probably missed 2 miles of the FLT trail but in keeping with my new goal that was ok. I got to the shelter, late afternoon, shortly there after, 8 boy scouts came in with their hammocks. They were a well-behaved group. Their packs were a mess, i.e. too heavy, and unbalanced, I have seen this before. I did not attempt a Yogi Bear, they were all hungry, but it would have been nice to have a little seasoning for my dinner. Heard some coyotes near by during the night, also heard an owl.

JUne 20th, Stoney Brook Lean-To

June 20 Stoney Brook Shelter

I actually hiked some today, my body totally gave out at 2pm, When I came to the shelter at 2, I felt chilled, decided to stop for the night, napped for 2 hours before setting up camp. I was alone at the shelter. I am a day behind

June 21st Bivouac

June 21 Bivouac

What an exhausting day, made some good time down a long hill, really hiked for the first time, then had a 2 plus mile walk on an old road, hot and exhausted, thought about quitting every 300 yards or so. Came to the Allegany River, went over an old bridge, the map says I am in Seneca land and to move quickly through it, sorry, quick is not in my vocabulary right now. Found a water source, clear, running from a drainage pipe under the RR track. Filtered it, cool and refreshing. Still hot and I am in slow motion. At 1 pm I stopped got my little tarp out and rested for 1 1/2 hours, then did the up hill climb, actually did ok for the first time. However, when I got to the top, it was a mile down a steep logging road, I cannot imagine how a vehicle gets logs down such a steep hill. Got to the Bivouac area with just enough water for the evening and morning. Water source is a house further down the hill. In the tent, realized I had a sinus cold, realized that this was not fun, realized that I had one days worth of food and two days of hiking. Figured I could get food at the RV park where I planned to stay tomorrow night. Began to seriously consider quitting and calling MP and asking if I could volunteer for the rest of the time on the AT in NJ.

June 22nd, Ellicottville, NY

June 22

Got water at the foot of the hill at the house noted on the map, saw the white blaze on the pole at the right of the property, started down the road, got a couple of tens and realized that I did not see a forward blaze, took my pack off and started walking down the road, no blaze on the one on the pole back at the house. I flagged down a car; it was the man Tom, who lives in the water house. I told him about my lack of food, that I planned to get enough at the RV park for the last day. He told me the RV park had no food etc. I told him I had a food box in Ellicottville, he offered to drive me to town, and I took him up on his offer. Trail magic at its best. I would have been in a bad. (looking back on this event, this turned me around, and set the stage for me to complete the hike)

June 23rdEllicottville, NY

June 23, Wed, Kelly Lodge, Ellicottville, NY

Spent 1 1/2 days reworking my schedule, I was very overly ambitious planning, in the back of my head I still had the mileage I could have done at the end of the AT hike, I am far from that with a new hip and added weight, plus 10 years of muscle loss that just happens with age. My thighs have lots the most, I can tell it when I go up hill. Other thoughts, there is allot of details to a hike, it is not just going out, filling up your backpack and starting to walk. For example, if you leave an important item out, you cannot just run down to the store and get it. Or as someone the other day, when I said I was having trouble finding water while hiking, why don't you just go and buy a gallon of water, well, think about it ???? I am finding it takes me an hour and 1/2 to set up camp and eat before I go to bed, and it takes the same amount of time in the morning before I can start hiking. I try to get on the hike by 7:30 and stop for the evening at 6 pm. I find that I have to be careful not to loss anything, there is no replacement handy, even in town if it is a small town. The other thing is the organization of the pack, where to store certain items that might be needed during the day -- there are 3 levels of possible need --- the least goes in the bottom of the backpack. Other observations, pushing harder on the right foot going up hill does not make the body go faster (the body is not a car). Water is were you find it, anywhere, run off, spring, creek, river, pond, or someone's back door. I find that I feel small be side the cars and trucks that pass me when the trail is on the road rather than in the woods, I feel small and frail compared to those be objects we as a species has created. There are certain foods one starts to crave after 3 days of dried food i.e. veggies, fruit, milk shakes, salty hamburgers, and chocolate milk. Mail out my bounce box for 2 stops ahead in N. Hornell, took at least a pound of "stuff" out of my pack and added to the bounce box. At the Subway I talked to the man behind the counter about my hike, he told me to come in tomorrow morning and have breakfast on him before I started hiking (I did, Yea for Yogi). Tracy said she would take me to the trailhead tomorrow morning. I know I have dropped some weight, but no scales to check it out. feel rested, a town day is not just a rest day, there is laundry, planning the next stretch of trail, buying food or supplies if needed, catching up on the weather and looking at the 10 day forecast. Plus interacting with people where one is staying or in the town. For example, I asked a woman where the post office was, and she gave me directions. Later in the afternoon, walking up to the library, I passed her on her porch; she recognized me and we had a chat about mildew, porches, paint, and hiking.

June 24th Bivouac east of Ellicottville, NY

June 24 Thur

Slow start, Tracy and I could not locate the trailhead driving up and down the road. She had to be somewhere at 9am so she dropped me off at the library. The lady in the library is married to a Forest Ranger, so we had a nice talk about hiking, camping, handing food bags, water sources, and how in our 20's 50-pound packs were easy but now very questionable if not outrageously unhealthy. She took me up to the trailhead. I got started 2 hours later than planned, but in my philosophy there is always some "reason" behind the events, even if it is not obvious. I have had several people say that I am an inspiration to them, and add, maybe someday, I will do a hike, to which I add, it is never too late, (at least at this time for me, at age 70). Did my best hiking to date today; the trail did not go as high on the ups and downs as they did in the Allegany State Forest. The bivouac area was nice with a picnic table that someone had to have hauled in the hard way (probably a 4 wheeler, there are allot of 4 wheeler trail everywhere so far, they quit at night fall, so it is quiet when they quit), but the major problem was water, the sign and the map both said there was a reliable water source at a specific location, it was a dried up spring. Experience came into play again, it was a 3/4 mile round trip to the spring from the camp site, I took my little green cup (experience has taught me its usefulness), I searched out a little run off about 300 yds further down the hill, could just barely get the cup in the water, filled up two liters 1/2 cup at a time, then dug out a deep hole for tomorrow morning (much easier getting 4 liters the next morning). I realized that on the AT there was always the feeling of hurry up, and sometimes competitive attitude about making miles, partly the need to get to Katadin by a certain time, but also by the individuals who wanted to my 25 mile days or to the 3 state challenge. Here hiking alone, it is just at my pace, my rest stops that are often and frequent, though they are getting fewer and shorter. I am still the only one out here, though there is a guy 10 days ahead of me according to the registers. It is solitary, not scare, good meditation times, my mind is not racing with thoughts while I hike, but I am aware of my body and how it feels, I shift my pack often. etc.